Stewart Warner 3-L z1 fuel feed question

rusty_apache

I can’t find a parts diagram of this tank and just wanted to make certain that nothing is missing here other than the tubing. I am assuming this is an orifice? 

My new car came with three tanks so I built one out of the best parts. 

Hans

This device is a combo vacuum booster for the tank and the windshield wiper.

The small tube is to supply the vacuum to the windshield wiper.

The large end, facing the other way,  which is not visible, connects to engine manifold for the source of vacuum.

rusty_apache

Yes, thank you, that’s how I have it piped up. 

I’m referring to the tiny funnel shaped hole, opposite to the connection to the intake manifold where the light Is coming through in the photograph.
 It appears to be an orifice, purposely put there, but for what reason?

I spoke with Mr. Houghton about this type of armless tank but he said they are too fragile to repair if the valves fail. I was provided with the more rugged 8 bolt style tank with the car, so I will configure it accordingly for the Essex in preparation for that eventuality.

Geoff

I have never  known for the valves to fail.   The part you illustrate is a vacuum booster.   It works on the venture principle.   The air is drawn through the  small hole by engine vacuum ,and the  area just above the tank itself is open to that stream of air, which causes vacuum in the tank, rather than the engine vacuum alone.   the man thing that goes wrong with this type of tank is the bottom flapper, which is die-cast.  And the floats tend to crack after 90 years as well! 

Hans

The vacuum of the engine is sufficient to operate the vacuum tank. Vacuum tanks for many cars worked prior to the boosters use by H & E.

The added venturi action supplies added increased vacuum for the wind shield wiper. 
Smoother supply of vacuum. Even when an increase in load it tends to help keep vacuum sufficient for the wiper.

But not always, as many of us know.  

The 8 bolt vacuum tank with the two springs to control ( dampen ) movement can work well.   Problematic, to me, are the springs, the large diameter float and the floats with the guide pin on the bottom. 


"Geoff's" good comment on the bottom flapper assembly is very correct. I coat the pot metal  part with model airplane Dope, I think it seals the porous nature of the part.
I do the inside and threaded parts too.

I have been fortunate to find certain ones with a brass assembly and they use the same flapper and screw right on to the H & E inner housing.

summation: the simpler operation of the 4 screw top vacuum tank is the primary advantage, along with the fuel shut off with removal of glass filter housing.

rusty_apache

Thanks for the great information guys! I am glad that Mr. King identified the original tank that came installed with the car and it is now working! 

I would eventually like to install an additional valve to run the carburetor dry if the car is going to sit for more than a week or so.