Re: [HSS] A few questions...

John Lawton wrote:

> Hi everyone,


> It has fallen to me to get my wife's 1928 SuperSix on the road, and I too

> have felt unfamiliar with the 20's technology, coupled with the fact that I

> have no technical info on the car! This makes my progress painfully slow.


> I've a couple of questions:


> What size tyres should be fitted on which axles, and what tyre pressures?

> Presently I have 6.00 x 19 on the rear, and 6.5 x 19 on the front. The

> steering is fiendishly heavy with 35psi in the tyres.

***The original size tyres are 6.00x19", and pressures are 35 in the

front and 38 in the rear. Steering will never be "light", but

attention to geometry will optimise things. Caster should be 0 to 1

deg positive (adjusted by wedges under the spring). Only use heavy oil

in the steering and joints, not grease.

> What should the contact breaker gap be? And how do I set the timing?


*** .020", but check for wear in bushings, (push shaft sideways). If

worn excessively, cut gap down to .015" for better orperation. Set

timing by timing light preferably, but to check static, align pointer

in hole at left rear of crankcase against the t.d.c. mark on flywheel,

and points should be just opening. (Have advance/retard lever fully

advanced for this, and hold slack in shaft anticlockwise) This is only

for initial setting, as you will probably need to advance for optimum

performance, and with the timing light will be about 3 flywheel

> How do I inspect the brake shoes and how do I remove the wheels?

*** There are inspection plates on the drums. check for minimal

clearance between drum and shoes. Front wheels, just remove the

bearing nut, and the wheel comes off. Rear wheels, you will have to

make a puller our a billet of steel, machined to screw on to the hub cap

thread, and a large bolt threaded into the centre. Screw the puller on

to hub, and screw the bolt hard up against the axle end to remove.

Alternative method is to jack car up on side opposite the axle you want

to remove, loosen nut, hold brass drift against axle end, and belt the

hell out of it with a ten pound sledge hammer. One good blow should do

it. Weight of car provides inertia to jolt hub off taper.

> I will put up some photos of the car on a website very soon!


> Best wishes,


> John Lawton

>** Hope this is of some help.

Geoff Clark, Tech. Advisor, N.Z. H.E.T. Club.
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