Re: [HSS] Clutch Adjustment

Unknown

Hudson29@aol.com wrote:

>

> I had worked my vectors wrong and made the clutch further out of

> adjustment by lengthening the link as I thought I should. A quick change had

> the link shortened as much as it would go and this did improve the action of

> the pedal. The problem is that I ran out of room to shorten the link before

> all of the free play was taken up. The threaded shaft hits the loop on the

> pedal if it is brought in even one more turn.

> It would seem that I will have to grind 1/4" to a 1/2" off of the link to

> make it work. Surely this can't be right? I checked and I had used 1/32"

> material to make the clutch gasket, not 1/16". Would this make the

> difference? Looking at the link, there really doesn't seem to be any reason

> why grinding a bit off would hurt anything. Can anyone think of any problems

> that might arise? Unfortunately, it will be another week before I can get at

> this project again.

>

> Paul O'Neil, Hudson29@aol.com

> Fullerton, California USA

>

So how much free-play do you have with the adjustment screwed all the

way in? The thing is to have a MINIMUM free-play of 1". So if the

clutch disengages freely and operates okay, more free-play than that

doesn't matter. There will be a run-in period when the corks wear in a

little, so don't worry too much if you haven't got it exactly right

initially. Also, I have found that the actual throw-out yoke fingers are

usually worn, which exacerbates the problem. The gasket was originally

1/16", and I have found with this thickness that when the corks are worn

out the clutch will slip before the pressure plate contacts the alloy

disc, hence eliminating of damage. With a thinner gasket the clutch

will still grab until the corks are so worn that the pressure plate will

start scoring the alloy disc. However, I doubt if you are ever going

to do enough miles to wear the clutch out, so probably easier to leave

as is.

Geoff.