Re: [HSS] new owner needs more help - thanks

Unknown

checknyt wrote:

>

> Thanks for the ideas on straightening out the mixed up rods and

> bearing caps, and on shimming procedure, etc. As I mentioned I saw

> numbers stamped all over the rods and caps, and nothing seemed to

> correspond except the number 6 rod and cap. I took detailed notes of

> the rod and cap markings visible from crawling under the right side

> of the car, then from the left side, then rotated the crank a quarter

> turn and repeated. I was able to conclude that 3 caps had been put

> on 180 degrees different than the rod. Since the dippers pointed

> correctly, I'll need to move them from an odd cylinder to even one

> (or visa versa) so I can spin the cap around and still have it dip

> correctly. The remaining 2 rods had each other's caps. In the end,

> I believe I do have a set stamped 1-6 on rod and cap, although many

> of them also have several other sets of numbers on them as well.

>

> I now have zero confidence that the engine was put together

> correctly. It appears the pistons could go in two different ways

> (with a 180 degree rotation). Can anyone confirm for me which way is

> correct - should the slot that is cut out of the wall of the piston

> face the manifold side of the engine, or away from the manifold

> side? I'm guessing it is important for proper oiling, particularly

> since the slot in the piston ends at the oil ring. The way they came

> in the car was with the slot facing the non-manifold side.

>

> Thanks for the help.

>

> Curt Fullom

The pistons are in the correct way round, that is with the plain side to

the manifold side, and the split oppoiste. This is for thrust, not

oiling, as on the power stroke all the thrust is on the balnk side. It

would appear that you do not have original pistons, as these were

strutted type, and it did not matter which way they went in. Hudson

maintained that the T-slot pistons maintained their size and shape

perfectly, but in fact I have had some pistons that have come loose on

the struts, and have collapsed considerably. Replacement types are

T-slot, split skirt or solid, and usually cam-ground. Why not leave the

rods as they are, and mark them accordingly? They will have

established a running pattern already, and you are going to have untold

trouble scraping and matching the rods and caps to the crank, as it is

unlikely each rod will have been bored exactly on centre. If say, a

rod has been bored .005 off centre, you are going to have a .010 overlap

at the sides if you turn the cap around. Best left as is, and

re-number the rods and caps by filing marks or centre punching dots in

each rod and cap. However, up to you. Good luck,

Geoff.