Re: [HSS] generator output/alternators????

Unknown

Lew Phelps wrote:

>

> OK, guys. I know I am about to bring down the wrath of somebody for

> even raising this question, but I need to do so.

>

> I finally completed the wiring job on my '29 Town Sedan, with the last

> step being to hook up the headlights. I find that the generator can't

> keep up with the demand. Part of the problem is that I chose to convert

> to halogen bulbs, which are higher wattage than the original bulbs, but

> that isn't all the problem; even with the current demand of OEM bulbs I

> would be "running in the red" with headlights on. (I measured the

> resistance on the filament of one of the bulbs that was in the

> headlight, and found 1.2 ohms on low beam and 0.9 ohms on high beam.

> This would equate to, respectively, 32 watts on low beam and 42 watts

> on high beam, whereas the new bulbs draw 55 watts on low and 60 watts

> on high -- 19 to 20 amps for both headlights, depending on what you

> figure as "base" voltage. Even at the lower wattage of the OEM bulb,

> we're looking at 10 amps on low beam and 14 amps on high beam. This

> is right at the limit of the generator's "stock new" output rating of

> 13 amps when warm.

>

> With the lights on low beam, I am seeing a negative current (battery

> discharge) of about 15 amps, which means the generator is keeping up

> with the ignition coil and a few amps worth of demand for the lights,

> but not nearly enough. (Without lights on, I get about 10 amps positive

> current when the car is first running and the generator is working to

> recharge the battery).

>

> Which leads me to the conclusion that if I intend to drive the Town

> Sedan at night, more than briefly, I need to convert to an alternator.

> Horrors!

>

> I figure there must be a way to do this that is "non-destructive" --

> that is, mount it on a bracket that will allow it to be removed and the

> car restored to original condition of anyone so chooses.

>

> I guess the main question is where to mount the alternator and where to

> mount the pulley for the drive belt. It would seem that the drive

> pulley either has to mount up front, driven by a larger-size belt that

> would drive the fan and the alternator, or pull the generator and mount

> a drive pulley in its place, possibly with a fabricated shaft that

> would "mimic" the original generator mechanically.

>

> So, for all those who have determined not to lynch me, I have the

> following questions:

>

> 1. Any reason NOT to do this (that is, I'm going to burn out the

> ampmeter, etc.)

> 2. Where to mount the alternator and the drive pulley?

> 3. Any recommendation on alternator brands either to get or to avoid?

> I'm looking at the JC Whitney catalog which offers an 80 amp alternator

> for about $80. Is that a unit worth considering?

>

Lew, I don't know what the layout of the l.h.d. models is like, but on

my '29 I have mounted an Auto-Lite generator off a '55 Chrysler on the

left hand side of the motor. These are identical to the Hudson

generators on Step-downs and Jets, and have a voltage regulator. The

A-L mounting bracket has to have holes drilled in it to match the holes

in the pedestal already cast into the crankcase, and a metal brace is

then bolted on to one of the timing case bolt holes to locate the

generator, and a longer fan belt of the original section fitted, the fan

still used as adjustment. It is a tight fit against the crankcase

breather tube, and you may have to extend the bracket sideways a little,

but this is a minor problem. The two wires can be run along the

ignition tubing, and in front of the block to the generator, and the

voltage regulator either mounted under the bulkhead out of sight, or on

the firewall, where it is easily serviceable. This looks infinitely

better than an alternator, and nobody has picked that it is not

original, except for nit-picking Hudson owners of course. These

generators poke out 45 amps, which is more than adequate, and of course

everything is automatic. When the battery is fully charged the rate

drops back to around 2 amps, and automatically cranks up when you turn

the lights on, or after starting. The old original generators were okay

for around 18-20 amps, and it is possible to wire a rheostat in to the

field circuit, crank the third brush forward as far as possible, and

then kick the resistance into the field to reduce the charging rate. I

had this on my No. 1 Hudson, but the disadvantage was that you have to

keep under 40 m.p.h. at night, as the large generators suffer from flux

distortion at high speeds, reducing the charge. I have run one of

these generators on my Essex for 40 years, and on that all I had to do

was weld the drive collar on to the front nut of the generator, as it

fits in the original cradle. There is no way you can mount the longer

generator in the original position on the Hudson though, and they ae

smaller in diameter in any case. And it is infinitely easier to

service than in the original position, tucked underneath the

carburettor. If you like I'll try taking a photo on my digital camera

and posting it to you of the set up. Is the pedestal in front of the

breather tube used for anything on l.h.d. models? These Auto-lite

generators are built like brick out-houses, and are incredibly hard

working and reliable. I now have all four of my cars with the same

generators and regulators, so one spare does the lot. You should have

no trouble picking up a Step-down unit somewhere, but make sure you get

a matched generator and regulator. The Jets used a narrow pulley, so

you will need one off the bigger motor. Good luck, sorry for the long

tome!

Geoff.