Chassis Frames Wanted...

Unknown

Hi All,

 

I have a friend who is trying to put together a
deal that will result in two people being happy, maybe more.

 

My friend Warrick (in Victoria, Australia) is
building a '34 Railton replica and needs a '34 Hudson Eight chassis frame - he
has everything else.

 

There is a person in Tasmania, Australia, who has a
'34 Hudson 8 frame but needs a '29 Super Six frame.  I'd like to help
put the right people in contact with each other so that both these guys finish
up with what they need.  I think that this is only going to work for people
in Australia (and perhaps New Zealand).

 

Please contact me privately at bravotech@bigpond.com  or phone me
on 07 3359 2671.

 

Chester, are you reading this?  I imagine you
may have a '29 chassis.

 

My c.1920 racer project is still available. 
Unfortunately I parked another car in the wrong place and now I can't get up
into the storage to list all the project bits.  Will be able to do it in a
few weeks when the 1914 Sunbeam is mobile again.

 

Cheers.............. Peter Ransom (Brisbane,
Australia)

 

 

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From:
Geoff
Clark

To: HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 9:18
AM

Subject: Re: [HSS] Ignition switch
overheating on '29

Lew, I believe there is someone over in the U.S. who does
rebuild these
original electrolocks, but if you cannot locate that source,
I'll outline
what I have done when I rebuilt my current '29 7 pass sedan,
which had the
electrolock butchered off halfway along the armoured
sheath.   I unscrewed
the plate from the bottom side of the
contact plate in the distributor, and
made up a similar shaped fitting to
screw in it's place, with an extrusion
which protuded out through the
original hole in the side of the distributor
body, extending out about 1/2
an inch. I then drilled and tapped this to
take the connection from the
coil.  I then bought a generic ignition switch
which fitted in the
dashboard and looks close enough to the original that
nobody would ever
notice.  The circuit is from the ammeter to the ignition
switch to the
coil, to the distributor, whereas the original circuit went
from the
ammeter, to the electrolock, to the coil, back to the electrolock,
thence
through the centre wire of the electolock cable to the coil.  
I
fitted a piece of stainless pipe in the original electrolock clamps on
the
outside of the spark plug cable conduit, and ran the wires through
this,
just to make it look as if it was designed for this.  Okay, you
don't have
the original theft-proof device of grounding out the igintion
when the key
is turned off in th eoriginal electrolock, but this is hardly
an issue
today.  I also ran the wires from the non-original generator
mounted on the
left hand side of the motor through this tube.  
If any  are interested, I
can make up a suitable adapter for the
bottom of the distributor, it's not a
big engineering
operation.   Best wishes to all,
Geoff.
----- Original Message
-----
From: "Lew Phelps" <hudsontownsedan@earthlink.net>
To:
<HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14,
2004 3:27 AM
Subject: [HSS] Ignition switch overheating on
'29


Hi, guys.  I've been in radio silence, more or less, for a
few months
because the Hudson was in the shop, awaiting the attention of my
local
mechanic to fix a long-running oil pump problem.  Finally got
that
resolved, after more time and $$ than is reasonable, but it turns
out
to be a problem I could not have fixed myself.

Having restored
oil pressure, I re-surfaced a couple of other problems.
   First,
the expensive and modern Holley fuel pressure regulator that I
had
installed along with a new electric fuel pump (you may Geoff's
derisive
laughter when I first posted photos of this), turns out not to
do the
job.  It can only be cranked down to a nominal 1 lb pressure,
and that
was still, intermittently, flooding the carb.  I took it off
and
replaced it with one of the old dial-a-pressure units I had in the
parts
bin, and it seems to be working.

Second, and the real reason for this
post, is that the ignition switch
(the keyed switch) becomes VERY hot when
the car runs even for a few
minutes. Obviously, a lot of corrosion or
something has built up on the
contacts, and is providing a lot of
resistance.  Unless someone on the
list can advise how to disassemble
the switch and clean the contacts, I
am going to presume that the most
feasible solution is to install a
modern high-amperage toggle switch
adjacent to the keyed switch, and
just leave it on the dashboard for
decoration, but use the modern
switch to control the vehicle electrical
system.  It appears from the
circuit diagram that a simple Double Pole
Single Throw switch will do
the job.  Any comments on this
approach?

Engine is also running a bit roughly, but I am going to leave
that for
later to resolve, once I get rid of the resistance in the
ignition
circuit that is probably cutting the spark voltage in half
or
thereabouts. (In the next few days, I will disconnect the wires
from
the switch and measure the resistance, just to confirm my
expectations
that it has high resistance.)

Yesterday, after about
five minutes of running, the switch was hot
enough that when I touched it
with a fingertip, I got a blister-raising
burn instantly. I would equate
this roughly to the temperature of a 50
watt light bulb.

Query: does
anyone know the resistance of the coil, and/or the "normal"
current flow in
the main coil circuit?

Lew






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