Re: [HSS] Projects

The interior handles are held in by a threaded collar. You need an ultra

thin spanner. Press in on the escutcheon to reveal the flats, insert the

spanner, and unscrew the collar. I have quartz-halogen on both my '28 Essex

and '29 Hudson, and have fitted a two-brush 45 amp generator to handle the

current requirement. I don;t know why you people still stick to the old

fashioned candlepower designation, when the rest of the civilised world use

wattage as the preferred and more useful definition. The q-h headlamp

bulbs are 50 watts each, which means with the draw from these plus the

ignition, tail and dash lamps you are using 109 watts, or on a 6 volt

system, 18 amps, which is just on the borderline for the original

generators. I use an Auto-Lite 4801 generator, with the appropriate

regulator. 6000 series generators are usable as well, - used on Chrysler,

Studebaker, and Hudson in the fifties. On the Essex it fits straight in to

the original holder, but on the '29 Hudson I mounted it on the left side,

and run it off the fan belt. It necessitates changing to positive ground,

but this is easily done - turn the battery around and swap the ammeter

connections.

Geoff.

----- Original Message -----

From: "James Coats" <jamcoats@uab.edu>

To: <HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 5:52 AM

Subject: [HSS] Projects





>I just got back from a long weekend of Hudson work. Now unfortunately

> I have emerged from my workshop and must go back to the weekday grind.

>

> I did manage to restore the horn, paint the vacuum tank and brackets

> (black!), front bumper medallion, exterior door handle inserts,

> interior window frames, upper and lower dashboards, and pinstripe all

> the interior parts (1980 BMW Brazil Metallic). I'll post some

> pictures of it sometime soon. While I was muffing with the vacuum

> tank I installed a street T fitting and reconnected the wiper motor.

>

> When I removed the interior window frames, I noticed that the interior

> portion of the door where the window frame sits is original paint. I

> was pleased to see that my green exterior color is pretty close.

>

> Also managed to set my point gap and timing (runs smoother now), and

> polish my interior hardware... all except the door handles. How in

> the world do you get them off? They don't seem to have a pin in them

> as the window rollers do, and I don't want to break anything

> attempting to learn how to remove them myself.

>

> Furthermore, Light bulbs. I did some experimentation. If anyone is

> looking for a brighter bulb to go in the tail or stop lamp, try a

> #1129. This is available at most auto parts stores. It will also fit

> in the interior lamp (boy, a real interior light!) Works great. If

> you want one brighter than that, go to www.MikesAfordable.com and

> order some 12 candle power bulbs (the originals are 3 CP). If you

> really want to blind someone (well, sortof), Mike's has a 50 watt

> Quartz stop light bulb and a 20 watt tail lamp bulb as well. I have

> those on order; I'd rather discharge the battery a bit when I hit the

> brake than have someone run into my car at night. All of the above

> bulbs will also fit in the cow lamps (moo) but I dont see any point in

> running any more than the 3CP #63 that came originally. They're just

> parking lights.

>

> On headlight bulbs, I believe all of our cars came with 21-21 CP

> bulbs. You don't want those, even if you could find them. Model A

> parts suppliers carry a 32-32 CP, or you can use a #1188 (also

> available from Mike's) which is 50 CP high and 32 CP low.

> You can also convert to quartz, but don't try it with a generator.

>

> Best Regards,

> James Coats

> 29 Standard Sedan

>

>

>

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