A slippery situation
One of the advantages of teaching with a fellow who's an industrial
chemist by training is you learn all kinds of neat stuff.
Yesterday at lunch, the subject of energy, petroleum and all that came
up. When I asked about using bio-diesel-based petroleum replacement
products, such as refining it into gasoline or lubricating oil, my
colleague informed me that even most "conventional" motor oils today
have a very high synthetic component; he found this out when he was
working at Chicago Rawhide. It turned out that when SE-grade motor oil
was replaced with SF-grade motor oil, many of the commonly-used
materials for seals especially, were being attacked by the SF-grade,
but were perfectly usable in SE-grade or older.
I then ventured the question about antique, and especially pre-WWII
cars. Without even finishing the sentence, he said "very dangerous."
His reasons were that the contemporary additive packages can, and as
we have read from occassional horror stories in the major magazines,
occassionally do, cause all kinds of trouble.
The additivies used in modern oil will attack the rubber and cork
gaskets very badly and can also wash babbitt off of the bearings in
some cases, poured babbitt being especially susceptible to harm.
I asked him what to use, and he suggested that if you can still find
it to use a non-detergent straight-weight oil, as that poses the least
possible risk to cars of this vintage.
As I don't own a pre-war car, I don't even have a Hudson yet, I was
wondering if I could get some feedback from anyone on our discussion
and maybe help someone save their motor. This would also be
interesting to see what experiences have been and I can share them
with him.
Charlie Larkin
chemist by training is you learn all kinds of neat stuff.
Yesterday at lunch, the subject of energy, petroleum and all that came
up. When I asked about using bio-diesel-based petroleum replacement
products, such as refining it into gasoline or lubricating oil, my
colleague informed me that even most "conventional" motor oils today
have a very high synthetic component; he found this out when he was
working at Chicago Rawhide. It turned out that when SE-grade motor oil
was replaced with SF-grade motor oil, many of the commonly-used
materials for seals especially, were being attacked by the SF-grade,
but were perfectly usable in SE-grade or older.
I then ventured the question about antique, and especially pre-WWII
cars. Without even finishing the sentence, he said "very dangerous."
His reasons were that the contemporary additive packages can, and as
we have read from occassional horror stories in the major magazines,
occassionally do, cause all kinds of trouble.
The additivies used in modern oil will attack the rubber and cork
gaskets very badly and can also wash babbitt off of the bearings in
some cases, poured babbitt being especially susceptible to harm.
I asked him what to use, and he suggested that if you can still find
it to use a non-detergent straight-weight oil, as that poses the least
possible risk to cars of this vintage.
As I don't own a pre-war car, I don't even have a Hudson yet, I was
wondering if I could get some feedback from anyone on our discussion
and maybe help someone save their motor. This would also be
interesting to see what experiences have been and I can share them
with him.
Charlie Larkin
0
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