Water leak
Comments
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The BEST way is to pull the head and install new head gasket, checking for cracks in head and block at water passages.
Also, thoroughly clean head bolts or studs and nuts, and lubricate so as to get a true torque reading, always using a clicker torque wrench.
I also use hardended grade 8 or better washers, as they spread the pressure over a larger area on the head, and prevent what some think is localized radial stress on the head at the bolt area. These washers are available from hot rod shops, as they are commonly used for that purpose.
And, I always flush the block, and use a good stop-leak (see below). Do not be concerned with useing a stop leak...all manufacturers use it in their new vehicles.
Before doing it the best way, you might want to try the "Hopeful" way:
1. Re-tourque head while engine is cold to 2 or 3 pounds more than recommendations. (must use a clicker torque wrench.)
2. Thoroughly flush the cooling system with the stronger version of cooling
system flushes.
3. Add a modern version of stop-leak, diligently following the directions....no
anti-freeze at this time.
4. Start the car and continue following the directions.
5. When car has been driven and completely warmed up according to the
stop-leak directions, re-torque head while still hot, again 2 or 3 lbs. more.
6. When engine is stone cold, re-torque again.
7. Add Anti-Freeze as directed (drain water before it freezes if in cold climate)0 -
Just something to consider when using washers under head bolts.
Put permatex 300 sealant on both sides of the washers previous to torqueing them down. If the bolt enters the water jacket, I put some on the threads[about half way up the threads should cover it.] Just enough to cover thread should be fine. Hey, it works on my race engines, it should work on the old hudson.0
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