Re: [HSS] Nuts

Unknown
Unknown
in Hudson 1916 - 1929







There is no reason why new bolts and nuts cannot be
used, as you say, it makes things easier. You would then have to torque to a
specified figure.  In my experience fitting split pins is relatively
futile, as I have never had a big-end bolt come undone.  As to the
tightness, I wouldn't worry about it, the engine will soon loosen up once you
have had it running for a while.  With new pistons and rings and the
bearing sfitte dup close, there are bound to be tight spots. Main thing is to
let the engine run for a while at a fast idle and if it binds up, wait until it
cools and hrepeat the process, it should soon nip off the high spots and you
will have a sweet running  unit.   If you set up too loose you
will have to re-adjust when the engine beds in.

Geoff.

----- Original Message -----



Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 2:50
AM

Subject: [HSS] Nuts



There's a lot of interesting talk re bearing clearances. But what does
everyone do re the nuts on the big end bolts. I know somepeople here who
replace the nuts with Nyloc nuts and loctite. Its easier than using the
original nuts that may be stretched and eliminates lining up the holes for the
split pins.

When I did my 24 Hud motor up, the machine shop poured new brgs and
returned the alu crankcase to me with the crank turning nice. When I
fited the block, piston & rods the motor was siezed. I used the
plastiguage to check and had my .001 clearance as set up by the machineshop.
 I assumed the reason was a tapered bore causing  the problem.
Recently it was suggested that perhaps the shop had put more whitemetal on one
side of the cap in the side thrust area causing the tightness. Any
comments.



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