Re: [HSS] Re: Exhaust Nut
I know you want to keep your cars original, but in the interests of safety,
I have welded a flange on to my exhaust. The reason is two-fold -
primarily carbon monoxide is deadly, and you cannot get the soft asbestos
that was originally used as a wrap for the flange nut to seal up against,
hence the constant leakage and movement. Secondly, if you do have to undo
the exhaust for any reason, it can be done! These original flange nuts are
a pain in the butt no matter what. The thread inside the manifold gets all
rusted up, and you either can't tighten it, or can't undo it. The lugs on
the flange nut get broken off, and even if you put some sort of anti-sieze
on the thread, it burns off. I tried using a bronze flange nut, but the
bronze and cast iron expanded at a different rate, and the nut kept coming
loose. So I welded a large two-bolt flange on, using a stainless
electrode, likewise on the pipe, and use a gasket and exhaust past - no more
problems. Okay, if I was into judgin and concourse d'elegance stuff, I
wouldn't have done it, but in the interests of safety and practicality it
was the best fix. And not one person has ever commented on the fact that I
have a bolted flange instead of the orginal threaded nut! If you do go
ahead with this modification, , make sure you have the flange the same
angle as the one on the manifold, it makes it much easier to undo. On my
No. 2 super Six, I eliminated the bottom butterfly housing altogether, and
just brought the exhaust up to bolt directly to the manifold. Then I
blanked off the by-pass with a stainless plate. This means there is no
exhaust heat at all around the intake, but this has not proved a drawback,
as modern gasoline and heat don't like each other anyway!
Geoff.
I have welded a flange on to my exhaust. The reason is two-fold -
primarily carbon monoxide is deadly, and you cannot get the soft asbestos
that was originally used as a wrap for the flange nut to seal up against,
hence the constant leakage and movement. Secondly, if you do have to undo
the exhaust for any reason, it can be done! These original flange nuts are
a pain in the butt no matter what. The thread inside the manifold gets all
rusted up, and you either can't tighten it, or can't undo it. The lugs on
the flange nut get broken off, and even if you put some sort of anti-sieze
on the thread, it burns off. I tried using a bronze flange nut, but the
bronze and cast iron expanded at a different rate, and the nut kept coming
loose. So I welded a large two-bolt flange on, using a stainless
electrode, likewise on the pipe, and use a gasket and exhaust past - no more
problems. Okay, if I was into judgin and concourse d'elegance stuff, I
wouldn't have done it, but in the interests of safety and practicality it
was the best fix. And not one person has ever commented on the fact that I
have a bolted flange instead of the orginal threaded nut! If you do go
ahead with this modification, , make sure you have the flange the same
angle as the one on the manifold, it makes it much easier to undo. On my
No. 2 super Six, I eliminated the bottom butterfly housing altogether, and
just brought the exhaust up to bolt directly to the manifold. Then I
blanked off the by-pass with a stainless plate. This means there is no
exhaust heat at all around the intake, but this has not proved a drawback,
as modern gasoline and heat don't like each other anyway!
Geoff.
----- Original Message -----
From: "standardsedan29" <sultans@webtv.net>
To: <HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: [HSS] Re: Exhaust Nut
>
> --- In HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com, "James Coats" <jamcoats@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Gang,
>> I am looking for the big external thread nut that holds the exhaust
>> pipe into the manifold; well, not exactly the manifold, but the
>> assembly that contains the damper valve for the heat riser. Mine is
>> broken and is falling out in pieces and my exhaust pipe will move in
>> and out about an inch, creating a horrendous leak. Anyone who can
>> help please let me know. I am reluctant to weld a modern flange on
>> the back of that assembly if I can find the correct parts for it. I
>> also need whatever parts are necessary to seal the heat riser bypass
>> pipe to the inlet side of that assembly; it looks like a nut and
>> packing go there.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> James Coats
>>
> The nut on my 29 is also broken in a couple of places but still will
> tighten up. My pipe like yours will pull in and out so when I went to the
> auto parts store I bought a nice return spring, a stainless hose clamp and
> a extra nut and a couple washers and used a bolt that holds the floor
> board in and now have a spring that keeps tention on the pipe nice and
> tight into the flange. Its not perfect but it works for now. If you know
> someone that makes these big nuts let me know because I will buya couple.
> Take care, Ron
>
>
>
>
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