Re: [HSS] Re: Marvel Carb

Unknown

Just one small point I should raise, and it may depend on what is classified

as "varnish". In fact the original cork floats were coated with shellac.

Varnish is usually a linseed oil based product, whereas shellac is is made

from gum dissolved in methylated spirits, or ethanol. Probably a better

way to go would be to use a modern two-pot coating, such as Epiglass

Everdure which is mixed with a hardener, and chemically hardens. This is

impervious to gasoline, and with increaseing use of Ethanol in modern fuels

we have to be one step ahead.

Geoff.

----- Original Message -----

From: "James Coats" <jamcoats@uab.edu>

To: <HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 1:33 PM

Subject: [HSS] Re: Marvel Carb





> Tim,

>

> I am one of the few people stateside that fool with Marvels. They can

> be tricky. Your answers are listed below:

>

>

>> - The cork float seems to coated with something. Is that old gas

> or some type of shellac or other coating?

>

> The float is coated with varnish. This keeps the cork from

> absorbing the gasoline and disintegrating over time. If the coating

> is intact, and the float isn't chipped or rotten, and still floats,

> there's nothing wrong with it. If necessary you can make a new float

> and coat it with varnish, reusing the lever from the original float.

> The floats were originally cork. In my car I have a brass float which

> came in a parts carburetor I bought, presumably from an ancient

> rebuild kit.

>

>

>> - I am guessing gasket sets are not available. Where can I get the

> thing gauge gasket material to make hnew ones?

>

> Gasket sets are difficult to find. You will need the carburetor to

> heat riser gasket, which is available from Dale Cooper

> www.hudsonmotorcarco.com, and is a copper faced gasket. The gaskets

> on the carburetor you will need are the float bowl cover gasket, and

> the float bowl to carb body gasket. The best way to make these is to

> take an ink roller made for inking stamp pads, and roll it about the

> surface you need the gasket for. Then stamp the part onto the gasket

> material, and you'll have a positive of the gasket you need. Then cut

> it out. I use the thin, black rubber-fiber or rubber-cellulose

> material which can be found at most auto parts stores. If you can

> find a Fel-Pro Part no 3060, it is a pack of assorted gasket materials

> that is very handy. Be very careful when working with the die cast

> float bowl; it is made of chocolate. On my carburetors I use a VERY

> THIN bead of RTV on the flange at the bottom of the iron carb body

> where the float bowl attaches, because the float bowls are ALWAYS

> warped there, and if you tighten the screws too tight you'll break

> everything. Use Permatex Ultra Black, as it won't soften or dissolve

> in gasoline, and use sparingly.

>

> If your float bowl goes to pot, you're not totally S.O.L., as our very

> own John Meadows casts new ones with covers out of silicon bronze.

> These are the way to go! He can be contacted at meadows@dcsi.net.au .

>

>

>> -The float bowl cover has a corner missing. All screw tabs are

> intact;It looks like it will still seal the bowl. It is the right

> corner that faces the air horn. A passage with a with a split tip

> shaft protrudes through the cover on a diagonal from the bottom of

> the bowl through the bowl cover. Where the shaft goes through the

> cover is where the cover is broken. Is this critical?

>

> I have a number of these that are like this, and it may lose a small

> amount of gas on a hard stop or corner, but I wouldn't worry about it.

> Again, the ultimate fix are John's bronze ones. The shaft you

> mention is the metering pin, which controls the flow of fuel to the

> intermediate and high speed jets. It must be free, straight, and

> properly connected to the throttle valve located in the heat riser.

> The jet that it fits inside at the bottom of the float bowl must be

> clean as well.

>

>

>> - What else should I be aware of?

>

> I think just what I've mentioned above! When you put things together

> just be very careful with that float bowl. If you are uncomfortable

> rebuilding that carb, send it to me and we'll make it as good as new.

> Geoff Clark also does them, out of NZ. I believe Dave Kostansek

> still does them as well, he is in the club directory under Ohio.

>

> There are at least two pamphlets on the Marvel in existence, one is

> the operation manual for the carb and heat control used on 29 Hudsons,

> and the other is entitled "Carburetion in Relation to Service / How to

> Overhaul a Marvel Carburetor". I believe Alex Burr has these, you can

> contact him by looking him up in the Members section of the Yahoo

> Groups website.

>

> Best of luck, please e-mail with any questions.

>

> Best Regards

> James Coats

> Coats Classic Cars

> Birmingham, AL

>

>

>

>

> Community email addresses:

> Post message: HudsonSuperSix16-29@onelist.com

> Subscribe: HudsonSuperSix16-29-subscribe@onelist.com

> Unsubscribe: HudsonSuperSix16-29-unsubscribe@onelist.com

> List owner: HudsonSuperSix16-29-owner@onelist.com

>

> Shortcut URL to this page:

> http://www.onelist.com/community/HudsonSuperSix16-29

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

> --

> No virus found in this incoming message.

> Checked by AVG Free Edition.

> Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.14.15/550 - Release Date:

> 24/11/2006 5:20 p.m.

>

>