28 Hudson timing chain & water pump
Hello out there - particularly Karl & Geoff-
This is in reference to the previous articles I've posted about the
carburetor heat control on my Dad's '28.
Please refer to the photos section and see the ones I've posted with
a title similar to the subject above.
As you can tell, I've recently torn into the front end of the car and
removed the parts for repair/replacement.
I need to ask for your expertise to answer a few questions.
In photos 1 & 2, you can see the slack in the chain. I have the
tension on opposite sides from 1 to 2 to show the chain it it's worst
case in each shot. Looks pretty loose to me...
My question concerns photo 2; What is the proper alignment of the
timing marks when I go to reassemble?
In photo 3 I've circled a pressed-in pin, which I'm guessing is
another timing Mark(?) I didn't see it until the parts were removed.
Does anyone know the timing spec? I've photographed the positions of
the sprockets and the distributor rotor, but of course I can't be
sure that's going to be close enough.
Another concern is that it was VERY difficult to get the water pump
out of the bore. I oiled it up well, but still had to use a rubber
mallet at the front of the shaft to get it to slide rearward. It
wouldn't rotate at all, not even with the tools pictured. Did I miss
a step or something? I don't understand why it was so tight. I'm
wondering if I'm going to have to take some emery cloth to the
surfaces so it will fit properly.
I'm also questioning the front seal, as shown in photo 8. It looks to
me like someone spotwelded a piece in to adapt a non-original type
seal into it. This wasn't how it's supposed to look is it?
One last concern (for now!)is the wear on the oil pump lifter,
or "puck", or whatever the term is. It's actually about 1 - 2mm deep.
Is that enough to cause trouble?
We're sending the water pump out for a rebuild tomorrow, where the
new style seals will be installed. I'm going to call him soon after
he gets it to ask if he splits the shaft (like karl did with his) for
easier future removal of the pump. Karl, I may need to take you up on
your offer on the parts.
Anyway, I've obviously got a lot of work to do on it yet. If someone
can fill me in on the questions above, I'd appreciate it very much.
Sincerely,
Ted
This is in reference to the previous articles I've posted about the
carburetor heat control on my Dad's '28.
Please refer to the photos section and see the ones I've posted with
a title similar to the subject above.
As you can tell, I've recently torn into the front end of the car and
removed the parts for repair/replacement.
I need to ask for your expertise to answer a few questions.
In photos 1 & 2, you can see the slack in the chain. I have the
tension on opposite sides from 1 to 2 to show the chain it it's worst
case in each shot. Looks pretty loose to me...
My question concerns photo 2; What is the proper alignment of the
timing marks when I go to reassemble?
In photo 3 I've circled a pressed-in pin, which I'm guessing is
another timing Mark(?) I didn't see it until the parts were removed.
Does anyone know the timing spec? I've photographed the positions of
the sprockets and the distributor rotor, but of course I can't be
sure that's going to be close enough.
Another concern is that it was VERY difficult to get the water pump
out of the bore. I oiled it up well, but still had to use a rubber
mallet at the front of the shaft to get it to slide rearward. It
wouldn't rotate at all, not even with the tools pictured. Did I miss
a step or something? I don't understand why it was so tight. I'm
wondering if I'm going to have to take some emery cloth to the
surfaces so it will fit properly.
I'm also questioning the front seal, as shown in photo 8. It looks to
me like someone spotwelded a piece in to adapt a non-original type
seal into it. This wasn't how it's supposed to look is it?
One last concern (for now!)is the wear on the oil pump lifter,
or "puck", or whatever the term is. It's actually about 1 - 2mm deep.
Is that enough to cause trouble?
We're sending the water pump out for a rebuild tomorrow, where the
new style seals will be installed. I'm going to call him soon after
he gets it to ask if he splits the shaft (like karl did with his) for
easier future removal of the pump. Karl, I may need to take you up on
your offer on the parts.
Anyway, I've obviously got a lot of work to do on it yet. If someone
can fill me in on the questions above, I'd appreciate it very much.
Sincerely,
Ted
0
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