Rough running 1950 Pacemaker

Aaron D. IL

I replaced my 1950 Pacemaker 232 WA-1 carb and manifold with an aluminum manifold and

2bbl WDG carb that's on all the bigger Wheel base cars and since then she hasn't run right. It'll startup and run rough until it's warmed up and then it'll die.If I engage the clutch and try to roll I can but as soon as I apply the gas she chokes out and dies.



So could this be caused by a monifold that is not flat against the block?



Could it be that I have to enlarge the exhaust as well as the intake?



Are there any design features on the 232 block that would make this conversion

unacceptable?



Also in a different but possbily related problem I can't time the car right and

when I move the distributor it's really sensative to setting changes. I have

installed a new timing chain and I'm certain that the chain was set on the gear

correctly. Seems like TDC is actually between plugs on the distributor and not

on one of them. Could this be caused by an inproperly installed oil pump?



I'd appreciate any help in solving these mysteries that I can get. Thanks.

[Deleted User]

Aaron... you diagnosed one of the mechanical problems which will cause ALL your engine symptoms... check Parks comments below



Park W

Founding Member Join Date: Mar 2004

Posts: 398

Rep Power: 3





Re: TDC question

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Art, you've got it right. When the UDC mark is showing, both #1 and #6 are at top dead center. One will be at the top of its exhaust stroke; the other will be at the top of its compression stroke, which is roughly when you want the spark to occur. If you have the distributor out and want to know which stroke which cylinder (1 or 6) is on, put your finger over the spark plug hole on #1 and bump the starter until you feel compression developing. Then you know that at the next appearance of the UDC mark, #1 should be firing. Another technique, if you've got the UDC mark showing and want to confirm which cylinder is where in the cycle, is to put a piece of heater hose to the spark plug hole in either 1 or 6 and blow. If that cylinder's on the compression stroke you'll feel resistance, since the valves are closed. If it's on the exhaust stroke you'll not feel resistance, since the exhaust valve will be slightly open (it doesn't close until a little beyond UDC)



Time to pull the pump and reset the mechanicals correctly.



Good Luck

rambos_ride

Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak?

[Deleted User]

You are sure to have a timing problem. If you are at top dead center and have the distributor out. Look at the Oil pump slot through the distributor hole. It should be horizontal with the smaller cresent side to the bottom of the engine. When this is the case, you install the distributor with the rotor pointing to number one.

Unknown

I would think that if nothing was done except swapping the intake, and the car ran okay previous, it has to be a vacuum leak, bad carb, intake leak. (one or all three contributing)



however, it sounds like you got other variables thrown into the equation, such as the timing chain. Is it possible for you to have a worn cam gear?

Aaron D. IL

Thanks everyone for your responses..........that's my current thinking, that there's more than one variable in this problem. I figured it might be a real possiblity that I need to remove the intake manifold and have it plained flat at a machine shop. My Vac advance is new....but the possiblity exists that the fittings are not 100% sealed either.

russmaas

Idle ans main jets may be too big for the 232 also why it wont run at idle or is erratic

[Deleted User]

Aaron, If your motor ran fine prior to the new installed carb & manifold-- your problem problem is with the carb. If you changed the chain etc. at the same time--that is another equation to deal with.

Randy Maas