Re: Essex 4 bottom end

Unknown
Unknown
in Hudson 1916 - 1929





Geoff or any one else.  Some of the rivets on
the shells have come a bit loose.  Furthermore some shells have negative
crush.  What is the best fix for this?  Shim under the shell or file
the caps?

 

Does anyone know the correct original shim pack
count?  The parts list just lists thick, thin, medium thin, etc without any
quantity.

 

I have several crankshafts from earlier motors with
the hollow rod bearing throws.  Are these interchangeble with the later
solid crankshafts with chain driven camshafts?  Seems the lighter weight
would be an advantage.

 

I see the parts list gives two rod lengths: 
11-3/4" and 12" depending on whether they used solid or split skirt
pistons.  Has anyone come up with decent replacement pistons for either of
these rod lengths?

 

Thanks

Karl

----- Original Message -----

From:
GeoffClark


Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 10:24
PM

Subject: Re: [HSS] Re: 1929 engine
color


 


Karl, the pits will not wear the
babbit.   That '30 Essex motor you saw in bits in my workshop had
horrendous rust pits in the shaft and had not worn the bearings in 50,000
miles. The only thing that can cause damage is a nick or sharp edge, usually
caused by a dropped tool or such like.

Geoff

----- Original Message -----

From: Karl Hamson

To: HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:18
PM

Subject: Re: [HSS] Re: 1929 engine
color



Hi Mike

I was just into the lower innards on my 23
Essex 4 cylinder.  This car sat in a museum for decades and the
crankshaft is badly pitted.  I would hate to grind it down past the
pits as this would make it very much undersize.  Is it possible to weld
or build the crank up then grind and polish it?  The mains and rods are
babbited bronze shells.

 

Compression is good and it runs great but that
bottom end is a worry.  I think the pits are cutting the babbit. 
Stands to reason does it not?

 

You are only a days drive away as we are near
Victoria BC.  We were acrually in
Couer de Lane a few weeks ago and
never thought to hunt you up.

 

Thanks

Karl

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Michael
M

To: HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2011 9:26
AM

Subject: [HSS] Re: 1929 engine
color


 

Babbit Mike and I are the same person. That is a very close figure on
the price of a rebuild. There are several different engines that the main
sizes are progressively bigger which is no big deal they just take a bit
more time to line bore. The customer I am doing this engine for is not
going for show quality but I do like to be as close to right on the colors
as possible. Chris Milan on this site has one of my engines in a car that
we are both very fond of, I almost cried when he took her home. If anyone
would like to use my services I can be contacted at 208-651-1161 and I am
also listed in the links section of this site under Vintage Engine Machine
Works.
Have a great day and thanks to all for the info on the paint
color.
Babbit Mike

--- In HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com,
"Karl Hamson" <karlh@...> wrote:
>
> I guess I just
break rules. My engine blocks and heads are black and I sometimes polish
the non ferrous parts. May the correct police come and throw me in jail!
If you are looking at an overhaul of a Super 6 you should budget $4-5000.
That is for crank grind, rebabbiting rods and mains, valve guides, valves,
pistons, pins, gaskets, timing chain etc.
>
> It is hard to
find anyone who can still babbit and machine bearings properly. Hudsons
are more tricky than usual as the mains get progressively bigger in
diameter towards the rear of the engine. You might try Babbit Mike who
occasionally posts on this site. I have not used him.
> Karl
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: forjack842@...
> To: HudsonSuperSix16-29@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 3:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [HSS]
1929 engine color
>
>
>
> Is your engine going
out for a full overhaul? If so please let me know how much its going to
cost you. I'm hoping I can get past having to pulling and sending mine
out.
>
> Mine's just completed body work and is now being
primed. I know I have to pull the head when it get back and lap in the
valves and get the compression
>


This discussion has been closed.

Categories