My 1928 Hudson Engine
I was told when I bought the car that it had run about 10 years ago, and should start right up. Right. Sure thing. The expansion plugs had all been taken out. I took off the radiator return because the bolts were loose, but rusted to the studs, and without gasket. Discovered that the tube is peppered with tiny rust holes, and when I took it off, I found that it was stuffed tight with cotton from the seat padding by little mice. And the engine block, too. Got a lot of it out with a flexible grabber, including some walnuts, but I fear that there is more cotton in the engine still. Was going to replace the expansion plugs, but can't get to the two between the block and the firewall, and there is another one between the radiator and the block.
So that's three problems so far, (1.) radiator return, (2.) cotton in the block, and (3.) expansion plugs.
Back to my main issue, that (4.) I can't turn over the engine. It's stuck. Took off the upper valve cover. Slight rust on the nuts, otherwise sparkling clean, no gasket. Took off the lower valve covers, slight rust on the inside of the cover, but no visible rust on the valve stems or guides. Added Kroil all over the place just in case. Plugs are the 1-1/8" hex originals. Can't find a spark plug wrench to fit. Lots of soft carbon in the cylinders though. Squirted in lots of Kroil and let it sit 2 months. Still can't turn over the engine. But then, I can't use the starter because the shaft that holds the idler cluster won't budge. (problem 5) I think its rusted in place. I see some rust on the flywheel teeth. Could there be a mechanical interlock with the transmission that is holding the shaft locked?
Back to the stuck engine. I can't crank it because I can't get a socket on the front nut holding on the harmonic balancer. Looks like the radiator is just ever so slightly shifted to the left, so a 38mm socket will not hold. The horns of the original crank interface hit the bottom of the socket.
So I thought that I'd rock the car in gear to move the engine. That doesn't work either. Won't budge, and made more difficult by a flat rear tire, even though I can pump it up for a day or two.
So, trying to remember way back when I was very little and my dad repaired old cars. He made up a mixture that he added to the cylinders, and many years later I found that same old bottle that had a tag on it. Oleic acid. That's what he added to his unstick mixture - I think - maybe. What else would he have used it for? So I made up a mixture using power steering fluid, oleic acid and lacquer thinner. When I used it on some slightly rusty clock gears, they cleaned up easily with a rag after letting them sit for a couple of days. I'm going to dump some of this mixture in the cylinders, but I still need a good method of turning the engine over. Actually, I'd really like to get it started.
So, what I really need is some good advice - about anything - from someone that has actually encountered this sort of thing. Please.
So that's three problems so far, (1.) radiator return, (2.) cotton in the block, and (3.) expansion plugs.
Back to my main issue, that (4.) I can't turn over the engine. It's stuck. Took off the upper valve cover. Slight rust on the nuts, otherwise sparkling clean, no gasket. Took off the lower valve covers, slight rust on the inside of the cover, but no visible rust on the valve stems or guides. Added Kroil all over the place just in case. Plugs are the 1-1/8" hex originals. Can't find a spark plug wrench to fit. Lots of soft carbon in the cylinders though. Squirted in lots of Kroil and let it sit 2 months. Still can't turn over the engine. But then, I can't use the starter because the shaft that holds the idler cluster won't budge. (problem 5) I think its rusted in place. I see some rust on the flywheel teeth. Could there be a mechanical interlock with the transmission that is holding the shaft locked?
Back to the stuck engine. I can't crank it because I can't get a socket on the front nut holding on the harmonic balancer. Looks like the radiator is just ever so slightly shifted to the left, so a 38mm socket will not hold. The horns of the original crank interface hit the bottom of the socket.
So I thought that I'd rock the car in gear to move the engine. That doesn't work either. Won't budge, and made more difficult by a flat rear tire, even though I can pump it up for a day or two.
So, trying to remember way back when I was very little and my dad repaired old cars. He made up a mixture that he added to the cylinders, and many years later I found that same old bottle that had a tag on it. Oleic acid. That's what he added to his unstick mixture - I think - maybe. What else would he have used it for? So I made up a mixture using power steering fluid, oleic acid and lacquer thinner. When I used it on some slightly rusty clock gears, they cleaned up easily with a rag after letting them sit for a couple of days. I'm going to dump some of this mixture in the cylinders, but I still need a good method of turning the engine over. Actually, I'd really like to get it started.
So, what I really need is some good advice - about anything - from someone that has actually encountered this sort of thing. Please.
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