Brake Light Switch Adjustment?

While I was replacing the tail light bulbs on my 37 tonight I noticed the brake lights didn’t come on until I really pushed hard on the pedal.  Is there some kind of an adjustment for the switch?


Comments

  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    Working from memory, I think I recall that the screw holes on the switch were slotted.  If so, then you only need loosen the screws slightly and slide the switch until the plunger meets the brake pedal linkage at the correct point; then tighten the screws to secure the switch.
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    That’s what I was hoping, there was an adjustment for it.  I’ll be getting her up on jack stands & take a better look from underneath.
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Got a closer look at the switch while moving the pedal arm & I can see that the switch is very slow to move after the pressure is taken off of it.  It will take a second or two to respond.  I wouldn’t imagine this is how it should respond to pressure being removed after pushing on the pedal. Other than cleaning crud off the exterior of the switch are there any other recommendations to fix this?
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    I'd guess you could squirt some penetrating oil into the gaps between the plunger and the plastic body, then work the plunger back and forth until it slides easily.  You might keep shooting the penetrating oil into it until it's dissolved all the internal crud (at which point the oil dripping out will no longer be dirty).  

    Alternately, you could pry open the tabs (if that's how the switch is held together), open up the switch and carefully clean out the inside.  If the contacts are burned, you could polish them up, then maybe put a light coating of oil (like 3 In One) inside to make things slide easily.  These switches generally last for decades so a bit of cleanup may be all you need for the next 20-30 years.
  • I would use an  aerosol electrical contact cleaner or brake cleaner. I don't think I would want to introduce any moisture than necessary into the switch, and brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner evaporates very quickly. I had to replace the one on my '40, and bought one from Ron Francis Wire Works that I was able to adapt.
  • Old Fogey UK
    Old Fogey UK Expert Adviser
    New brake light switches are "as cheap as chips " as we say here in England.
    Rather than mess around with no positive result, why not just fit one ?
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    Does anyone sell them?
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    So I cleaned the switch up with it in place & then gave each end of the rod that moves a squirt of WD40 to lube & help free up anymore sticking.  In testing it I did find that the brightness varies with how much of the pedal I use.  Fully pushing the pedal gives full brightness but giving a slight pedal maybe 25% of the pedal gives less bright tail lights.  Is this how they worked?  Definitely different than anything I’ve experienced so I needed to ask about this oddity I’m seeing.  
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    The switch is worn and dirty.   Replace it.
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    You have an enviable position in England if, indeed, these are "cheap as chips".  I'm not aware they're even available here in the States, let alone cheap as chips (or fish, for that matter).  Can you tell me a manufacturer and part number?  I hope they're not made by the famous "Lucas" company!!
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    If anyone knows where they can be had or even a part number if available that would be helpful.  
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    You could always tap into the brake line and fit a hydraulic switch. 
  • 7XPacemaker
    7XPacemaker Senior Contributor
    That’s what I think I am going to do with mine- similar to a step down. Use a switch from a Harley Davidson. They are new construction and will not fail if you ever switch to a synthetic brake fluid..
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    Hudson vendors accumulate many N.O.S. parts from dealership stock that they've bought over the years.  They have plastic trays full of this stuff, all mixed together.  There are no markings or part numbers.  The parts aren't in neatly labeled boxes.  The vendors don't take inventory and print out catalogs.  Nor do most of the vendors read these forums.

    To find a part, you simply have to take a snapshot of what you want, throw in a couple of dimensions (to verify the size of the part), and e-mail it to a few of the vendors who advertise in the WTN.  Then you have a fighting chance of finding one.

    This is how we old-timers found the parts for our Hudsons, 30, 40 or 50 years ago.  Back then we had to send our inquiries through the mail, inserting a stamped, addressed reply envelope.  Nowadays, e-mail has streamlined the process wonderfully.

    I have seen these switches for sale at Hudson flea markets.  The stuff's out there.  You just have to send out some inquiries.




  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    With a brass adapter.
  • Old Fogey UK
    Old Fogey UK Expert Adviser
    :D Jon B said:
    You have an enviable position in England if, indeed, these are "cheap as chips".  I'm not aware they're even available here in the States, let alone cheap as chips (or fish, for that matter).  Can you tell me a manufacturer and part number?  I hope they're not made by the famous "Lucas" company!!
    I'm surprised you can't get universal spring loaded brake switches in the US, Jon.

    Generic ones aren't expensive here and, provided you're not of the Pebble Beach fraternity (something most British Old car types aren't) brake light switches are generally tucked away and lack of originality doesn't  offend the eye.
    Try -

    www.vintagecarparts.co.uk

    www.s-v-c.co.uk

    www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk

    I think they all stock them and they should be OK to fit with perhaps  a little modification.
    However, I am prepared to be wrong on this; when I needed one, I was very fortunate because Duke Marley gave me  NOS Hudson switch !

    P.S. I don't believe they're made by Lucas. If they were, I certainly wouldn't suggest using one ! :D
  • If you want to use a new hyd. switch, get a LOW PRESSURE one made for old cars.
    I changed to a new 'hot rod' lever switch; direct acting!
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    edited November 2020
    We are able to buy ones like this:


    Is that what you're talking about?  This is a pull-type.  If the rod extended out of the housing a bit more (on the end opposite the spring) the switch might work, but I don't know if the mounting holes will match the holes on the car's rear engine support.
  • Old Fogey UK
    Old Fogey UK Expert Adviser
    Jon,
    I think you can also get the box style ones with a spring loaded little bar coming out of each end that work on a push or pull principle.
    That's the type I thought would be most appropriate.
    If they can't be found on the websites I mentioned, let me know and I'll find somewhere else that has them.
  • Old Fogey UK
    Old Fogey UK Expert Adviser
    Jon,
    I think you can also get the box style ones with a spring loaded little bar coming out of each end that work on a push or pull principle.
    That's the type I thought would be most appropriate.
    If they can't be found on the websites I mentioned, let me know and I'll find somewhere else that has them.
    Just checked, autoelectricsupplies have them. £4.97 - about the same price as a mega portion of chips over here !  :D

  • 40indianssgmailcom
    40indianssgmailcom Senior Contributor
    You might try looking at 1940 Indian motorcycle brake switches as they look very much like the Hudson switch..  starklite cycle is one vendor
  • onerare39
    onerare39 Expert Adviser, Member
    40 was right, it looks very similar.  

     
    48indian  126A Brake Light Switch Like Original 1938 to 1953 Chief Sport  Scout Four and 741 9500

  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    edited November 2020
    Looks like a match!  Only problem is the price.  Depending on the supplier, it's $60 to $95 apiece.

    I'd try to renew the old one.
  • Geoff
    Geoff Senior Contributor
    Or a cigarette lighter

  • Old Fogey UK
    Old Fogey UK Expert Adviser
    Jon B said:
    Looks like a match!  Only problem is the price.  Depending on the supplier, it's $60 to $95 apiece.

    I'd try to renew the old one.
    I've also looked at some English websites selling classic motorcycle parts and they have metal box type switches which look like they could be made to work.
    Doing a rough currency conversion, they all seem to be under $40.
    If you're buying from outside the UK you don't pay tax on them and that should offset the shipping cost.
  • BigSky
    BigSky Senior Contributor
    That’s very much appreciated, do you have a web site you can post?
  • Old Fogey UK
    Old Fogey UK Expert Adviser
    BigSky said:
    That’s very much appreciated, do you have a web site you can post?
    I will private message you tomorrow.