Help needed please with 1935 transmission interlock.
Although my car is 1934, I had to fit a 1935 interlock because my engine rebuilder lost some of the parts of the original 1934 type.
I was only able to locate a 1935 complete assembly and so had to use that.
It's installed as shown in the attached pics.
The rod passes through the pivot arm (I had to drill the arm to allow the rod to pass through) with a nut above the arm.
Within the spring is a spacer tube that fits between this nut and the 2 nuts below the arm.
I can't work out how to adjust it properly so that the gap in the billet block attached to the upper end of the arm allows the little stud on the side of the gearbox to pop out when selecting second and top gears.
Have I installed it properly ?
I'd really appreciate some advice please and some pics of a 1935 interlock assembly installed on a gearbox - if someone doesn't mind crawling under their car to help me out !
Comments
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These two discussions contain drawings or photos that might help you:
https://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/comment/238579#Comment_238579
https://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/comment/237446#Comment_237446
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Thank you, Jon.
I remember reading those threads but what I really need is a pic of a 1935 interlock on the side of the transmission case so I can check if I have put it all together correctly.
I can't figure out what the spacer tube inside the coil spring is supposed to do and how I should adjust the set-up.0 -
You adjust the linkage so that when the clutch pedal is fully depressed the cut-out in the interlock allows the detent plunger to move outwards.0
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Geoff - does it look like I've assembled the interlock correctly ?Geoff said:You adjust the linkage so that when the clutch pedal is fully depressed the cut-out in the interlock allows the detent plunger to move outwards.0 -
It's taken me over an hour and a half this morning but I've managed to get the interlock and the clutch pedal yoke set up properly.
It was all a bit like playing Star Trek's 3-Dimensional Chess with Mr Spock but I did it in the end !
It would have been easier with a helper to depress the clutch pedal as I was doing the adjusting but Mrs Fogey has gone out Christmas shopping and I can't have a friend around to help because of Virus Lockdown.
I'm now going to have a lunchtime whiskey to celebrate !
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Nice work.For me it's ok but I miss the rubber under the pedal.Possible to have the external diameter; inside and thick. I'm going to do it myself. Because it's not easy to bring the pieces with the covid;Thank you
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You can buy these pedal rubbers from US suppliers.
They are in the ROC parts list and I think the ROC get them from the US.
Or you could make them yourself from black soft rubber.
A suggestion from me - if you buy them or make them, reinforce them with a disc of rubber glued to the back that faces the firewall (I used discs cut from an old rubber floor mat).
My pedal rubbers came from K-Gap years ago and started to split because of pressure from the coil springs.
Gluing something harder on the back made them as good as new.0 -
Thanks;I just want dimensions and not order
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I will measure the discs tomorrow and email you the dimensions.0
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Thank you
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I've emailed Jacky with the dimensions he wanted.For anyone else who's thinking of making pedal buffers, the approximate diameter is 67mm and the approximate thickness id 15mm.
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"is" not "id".Sorry
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Thanks top top.I also see that my rubber the other pedal has lost well compared to yours
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You can buy them on eBay listed for Jeeps for around $10 pair.0
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A reference, perhaps? Thank you29sptphaeton said:You can buy them on eBay listed for Jeeps for around $10 pair.0 -
The best solution is to buy the Jeep rubber discs and reinforce them if the pedal return springs cut into them.0
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The purpose of the rubber discs and their coil springs is to prevent the pedal levers hitting the firewall due to the force of the recoil springs and making a loud noise.
The weakness of the design is that the coil springs eventually cut into the soft rubber of the discs.
This can be prevented by reinforcing the front and back of the discs with a thin layer of harder material - I originally tried cardboard but the springs dug into it and so I used rubber off-cuts from when I made the front floor mat.
This makes them durable but still supresses the the noise from the pedal levers hitting the firewall.0 -
I went looking on eBay without any luck, maybe you can find them & give us a link? My search words must be off.29sptphaeton said:You can buy them on eBay listed for Jeeps for around $10 pair.0 -
Bay does not give item #, pedal draft pad kit Rubber fits CJ 2A $1380, $5.85 shipping.0
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13.80 SHIPPING US POSTAL 28 CUSTOMS BELGIUM 53 95 euros uppppsssssss
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Argghh !!! Fabriquez-les !JACK356 said:13.80 SHIPPING US POSTAL 28 CUSTOMS BELGIUM 53 95 euros uppppsssssss0 -
YES 0
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home transformation
Mounting
Pedal brake;spring?????
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???? RED ARROW
BRAKE SPRING? Thank you
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Well done !
I'm very impressed ! 0 -
Thank you spring brake ??? 0
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I will look in my spare parts because I have a spring that might work for you.0
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These are the springs I have that could help Jack.
I have private messaged him about them.
Although they are a different shape from the originals, they are a matching pair and I tested them on my car this morning and they work fine.
For the future reference of anyone else in need of pedal springs 1934 to 193(?), I think they are clutch pedal mechanism springs from a Citroen Traction 11BL. I still have them in my "bits box" from the days when I had an 11BL.
It's amazing what you can make work on Hudsons !
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Thank you
there is also a spring in red hanging on the pedal that is broken. Where's he going?
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