Battery size or group
Comments
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I'm running a Napa 7244. It has 785 CCA, which is lower than the Red Top Optima. I think the red top is 800 CCA. I've had Optimas in the past and really like them, but the 785 CCA seems like plenty of amps for most conditions and doesn't look anachronistic like the Red Top. The 7244 just looks so period correct, I can't justify throwing a Red Top in. But if you have a box, go Red Top.0
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I have a red top optima in my Commodore 8. I bought a case on eBay that looks like a normal 6 volt battery with caps. The optima fits inside and the posts stick up through the top. You can tell looking at it.0
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Can’t tell looking at it.0
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Back in 2012 I was using a 6 volt Optima battery in my '53 Super Wasp. The battery ruptured while I was driving it leaving me stranded on the side of the road (it was only about two months old at the time). Had the charging system checked out by two different auto shops and both found nothing wrong. Went back to the old type of battery, a "Super Start" and haven't had any problems since then.0
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Most important thing is to make sure your cables are the correct size for 6 volt. 12 volt cables are too small. And connections need to be clean with no corrosion. these things are as least as important as the battery CCA. The output of today's batteries is superior to what they were back in the 50's.0
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I suppose one advantage of an Optima in a vintage look box is the lack of corrosive gasses. That's a definite bonus and addresses the issue Mike mentioned about corroded cables. But, those Optima covers aren't cheap at $90 for $5 worth of plastic. Really neat idea, but kinda pricey.0
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A friend of mine had a normal lead acid battery explode from a spark under the hood of a perfectly restored pickup. It took a lot of work cleaning and repainting everything under the hood. Optima dry cells don’t have any liquid in them.0
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The make of the battery is moot when the other considerations are not taken into account. The cars we are in "love" with are from 1909 to 1958 in vintage. That makes them all OLD! Many of us do not know the history of our acquisitions and therefore are unaware of the maintenance or lack there of that has taken place during the "aging" process of these fine machines. In the world of electronic things the original wiring and the factors that effect it have taken a toll on our vehicles. If you have not exchanged the battery cables, both negative and positive, new properly sized replacement batteries will be laboring to get past the internal corrosion that has attacked these power channels. Aside from that the solenoids and switches that make them operate as well as the wiring that connects the switches to the solenoids are all deteriorated ...it makes no difference where or how the vehicle was stored... all of these things are victims of the corrosive effects of nature. CHECK CHECK and double check your main power circuits for proper "tick as my English friends will say" or proper condition for we Yanks. As for batteries... do as you will ... Cold Cranking Amps is KING and the highest without acid will always get my monies as they give me the better service. Good Luck ...off rant. Ken0
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I bought my first Optima in 12/1999 from a buddy who owned an Auto parts store. After 10+ years it started to die so I bought a replacement from Amazon in 2011. It came directly from Optima and was a piece of crap lasting around 3 years. I gave up on Optima until 2016 when I bought another one from my buddy and it stays 98% charged with a 100% State of Health for months without being charged. I'm thinking Optima made some bad 6v batteries in 2011/2012.
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The first Optima had 1000 CCA and the newer ones were 800 CCA. I have 2 Bosch Group 2 COM 625 CCA batteries which start the cars with no trouble and use the original battery hold downs.
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