1946 wiring harness
Comments
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I've recently DIY rewired a 35. I used a length of 7 core trailer flex from the firewall to the rear of the car, that takes care of the tail lights, stop lights, left and right indicator, fuel gauge sender, fuel pump and a dedicated earth back to the firewall. The dedicated earth is not necessary but I like them.
Then a length of 5 core trailer flex from the firewall to each headlight, that's for high beam, low beam, park light, indicator and an earth.
Total cost of wire, connectors, heat shrink, fuse block etc was less than $200.0 -
Feel sorry for us in Australia. YNZ $1,000US is a lot more for us with postage, our GST and exchange rate.0
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I used a street rod harness from Kwik Wire that had everything needed including a kill switch, and wires for electric fuel pump,A/C, and built in fuse panel. I converted to 12 volts and used a GM type side terminal battery to eliminate chance of hood shorting out on top post batteries. I used a runtz for the gas gauge, and a direct temp gauge.0
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engr1962 said:Hi Everyone,
I need to completely rewire my 46 super six that I'm starting to restore. I see that YNZ has harnesses, but is it worth 1000$ for the main and tail light harness? Seems like I could make my own for much less.
Any thoughts?
thanks!
dan0 -
I used a RIW harness for my 46 pickup for around $500. Advertised as Body and Engine harness. The only wire that went to the engine was the coil feed. The others were chopped off at the firewall, with a note and terminals to plug into the firewall connector to the engine. I told them that if there was a connector there, it wouldn't be usable after 75 years. No help and they wanted to sell me an engine harness. A connector is just one more place for a problem.I soldered wires to the gen, starter, voltage reg, horn, lights etc. Not happy with them. I used them for my 40 and it was as advertised.
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