1929 Essex Sport Coupe Super Six - Help/information

pcerkez

I am going to restore my 1929 Essex. 
My Dad's Godmother bought it new ($927), my dad bought it from her and I bought it from him. (The headlights still have some of the WWII blackout paint on them.)
I last drove it in about 2014 and it ran fine.  However, it has been sitting since then and I don't want to run the risk of any engine issues. From the maintenance records I have, the engine has never been rebuilt.  Just oil and antifreeze changes and brakes.
Does anyone have insight on where I can get an engine rebuild done?
I also need to have the wooden wheels rebuilt (some of the spokes have worm holes in them.)
I want to try and keep this as original as possible but there is interior damage (roof is completely gone) that absolutely needs to be reworked.

Courtesy Man

Very nice looking ! You have several issues that certainly need attention - the wheels and the roof - hopefully you have a garage to store it in. Regarding the engine I would hold off on scheduling a rebuild until its condition can be evaluated.  Can you crank it over ? If it ran fine in 2014 why not now - with some checking and cleaning components. Best wishes, Gert Kristiansen.

JACK356

Wow great look. I see it well with a treatment carosserie restom and small defects to adjust as well as a restart motor in the rules.

MikeSheridan

Coker Tire is one source I know of to make new wood wheels. Any upholstery shop could do the top, assuming that all the pieces are there, even if they need to be replaced. 

ernie28

Looks great. The first thing to do before you try and start the engine again is to drop the sump and clean out both parts of the sump - top and bottom. You may be surprised at how much sludge is there. After cleaning reinstall with new gaskets if needed, fresh oil and you have avoided numerous potential issues. If you need to make new gaskets please ensure they are have all the correct holes as the rear main oil return pipe hole must be there. Also the top troughs must be filled with oil prior to refitting the sump. Before turning the ignition on i suggest crank over to ensure the oil gauge is registering indicating oil is being circulated before firing up for the first time.
Good luck ? 

rusty_apache

Stutzman Wheel Shop 330-897-1391 (no computer stuff LOL)

You have to leave a message if he doesn’t pick up.

You inherited an excellent survivor. It looks to be the same color scheme as mine so they were probably built about the same time. Consider joining the club. You can post ads in the magazine which will put you in contact with other owners who aren’t on the internet.

 The long grained roof vinyl sold for model A Fords is the closest thing to the original one on my 1929.

strangeplant

Stutzman is the only place to go. Remember that the right hickory wood must be used, selected and matched, never oak. It must be cured right and not shrink. You need tight wheels. An upholstery shop could do the wheels if they will never be driven. They are a very skilled product, and support the brake drum, must be concentric and run true. Have the spokes painted with marine sealant/preservative at the same time, not later. It must be UV stabilized, and water resistant to adequately protect the wood. Also have Stutzman paint the brake drums before assembly, and the feloe steel rims too. The number is to the General Store, and they will relay messages.

I had my wheels respoked 3 years ago, and they are still beautiful.

A suggestion: Interlux Sikkens Cetol Marine Light Wood Finish is probably the best you can get for your wood spokes. UV resistant, protects the wood like nothing else. This is what professional boat restorers use on their exposed wood. Actually reasonably priced too. Wholesale Marine  877-388-2628 wholesalemarine.com

Oh, if you are actually going to drive your car, add an air filter in place of the do-nothing-for-you can. Such as a K&N universal filter. You would need a short piece of exhaust pipe to join the two together, scrap from a muffler shop. Most of the abrasive gunk in your oil pan comes from the air. Clean air is the most important thing to minimize your engine wear.

Non-detergent oil is a must!

pcerkez

Courtesy Man said:

Very nice looking ! You have several issues that certainly need attention - the wheels and the roof - hopefully you have a garage to store it in. Regarding the engine I would hold off on scheduling a rebuild until its condition can be evaluated.  Can you crank it over ? If it ran fine in 2014 why not now - with some checking and cleaning components. Best wishes, Gert Kristiansen.

Currently in a 'conditioned' garage and completely out of the weather.
My goal was to do the engine/tranny last.  The engine still turns freely by hand, so thankfully nothing is 'frozen.'  I could probably turn it over but I don't trust the oil.  It has been in there too long and I don't know if any condensation built up in the engine.

pcerkez

MikeSheridan said:

Coker Tire is one source I know of to make new wood wheels. Any upholstery shop could do the top, assuming that all the pieces are there, even if they need to be replaced. 

the majoprity of hte top's frame is there but one piece at the front corner 'exploded' (and turned to dust) after it had gotten wet once.
I will be getting an upholsterer involved.  The majority of the interior is still good, except for the seats and overhead.

pcerkez

ernie28 said:

Looks great. The first thing to do before you try and start the engine again is to drop the sump and clean out both parts of the sump - top and bottom. You may be surprised at how much sludge is there. After cleaning reinstall with new gaskets if needed, fresh oil and you have avoided numerous potential issues. If you need to make new gaskets please ensure they are have all the correct holes as the rear main oil return pipe hole must be there. Also the top troughs must be filled with oil prior to refitting the sump. Before turning the ignition on i suggest crank over to ensure the oil gauge is registering indicating oil is being circulated before firing up for the first time.
Good luck ? 

Great info on the engine Ernie, thanks.

pcerkez

rusty_apache said:

Stutzman Wheel Shop 330-897-1391 (no computer stuff LOL)

You have to leave a message if he doesn’t pick up.

You inherited an excellent survivor. It looks to be the same color scheme as mine so they were probably built about the same time. Consider joining the club. You can post ads in the magazine which will put you in contact with other owners who aren’t on the internet.

 The long grained roof vinyl sold for model A Fords is the closest thing to the original one on my 1929.

Great news, thanks.  Back in the mid-60's, after my dad had the car for a few years,  he replaced the 'leather' roof with a vinyl substitute that looked very similar.  (the leather got a hole in it somehow.)  It didn't hold up to the sun and broke down.  He never drove it after that.
I signed up for the club when I created this post.  Thanks.
I will research into Stutzman wheel.

pcerkez

strangeplant said:

Stutzman is the only place to go. Remember that the right hickory wood must be used, selected and matched, never oak. It must be cured right and not shrink. You need tight wheels. An upholstery shop could do the wheels if they will never be driven. They are a very skilled product, and support the brake drum, must be concentric and run true. Have the spokes painted with marine sealant/preservative at the same time, not later. It must be UV stabilized, and water resistant to adequately protect the wood. Also have Stutzman paint the brake drums before assembly, and the feloe steel rims too. The number is to the General Store, and they will relay messages.

I had my wheels respoked 3 years ago, and they are still beautiful.

A suggestion: Interlux Sikkens Cetol Marine Light Wood Finish is probably the best you can get for your wood spokes. UV resistant, protects the wood like nothing else. This is what professional boat restorers use on their exposed wood. Actually reasonably priced too. Wholesale Marine  877-388-2628 wholesalemarine.com

Oh, if you are actually going to drive your car, add an air filter in place of the do-nothing-for-you can. Such as a K&N universal filter. You would need a short piece of exhaust pipe to join the two together, scrap from a muffler shop. Most of the abrasive gunk in your oil pan comes from the air. Clean air is the most important thing to minimize your engine wear.

Non-detergent oil is a must!

Awesome.  Great tips.  thanks.
I had already planned for an air filter (I live at the beach in South Carolina.  :-) )
When dad first got the car, he harped on the non-detergent oil usage.  
Stutzman is now definitely on my "go to list."
I used the Interlux marine paint when I helped restore a boat's decking (20 ft'r "runabout") 20+ years ago.  it's good stuff.
I am in no hurry so I will be finding the right folks to get this done properly.
Thanks.

pcerkez

One last comment, the odometer only has about 45000 miles on it  ;-)
and when last driven, the car would still easily do 60mph.
Brakes pulled a lot to the right but I found and fixed that problem (mechanical brakes).

pcerkez

rusty_apache said:

Stutzman Wheel Shop 330-897-1391 (no computer stuff LOL)

You have to leave a message if he doesn’t pick up.

You inherited an excellent survivor. It looks to be the same color scheme as mine so they were probably built about the same time. Consider joining the club. You can post ads in the magazine which will put you in contact with other owners who aren’t on the internet.

 The long grained roof vinyl sold for model A Fords is the closest thing to the original one on my 1929.

I think the manufacturer plate in the engine compartment says June of 1929. 
I do know my dad's godmother bought it on 25 June 29.  ( I have paperwork on that) :-)

rusty_apache

pcerkez said:

rusty_apache said:

Stutzman Wheel Shop 330-897-1391 (no computer stuff LOL)

You have to leave a message if he doesn’t pick up.

You inherited an excellent survivor. It looks to be the same color scheme as mine so they were probably built about the same time. Consider joining the club. You can post ads in the magazine which will put you in contact with other owners who aren’t on the internet.

 The long grained roof vinyl sold for model A Fords is the closest thing to the original one on my 1929.

I think the manufacturer plate in the engine compartment says June of 1929. 
I do know my dad's godmother bought it on 25 June 29.  ( I have paperwork on that) :-)

pcerkez said:

rusty_apache said:

Stutzman Wheel Shop 330-897-1391 (no computer stuff LOL)

You have to leave a message if he doesn’t pick up.

You inherited an excellent survivor. It looks to be the same color scheme as mine so they were probably built about the same time. Consider joining the club. You can post ads in the magazine which will put you in contact with other owners who aren’t on the internet.

 The long grained roof vinyl sold for model A Fords is the closest thing to the original one on my 1929.

I think the manufacturer plate in the engine compartment says June of 1929. 
I do know my dad's godmother bought it on 25 June 29.  ( I have paperwork on that) :-)

Thanks,
I believe mine was built in the fall, around the time of the stock market crash. 

pcerkez

Going to be slow going.  But, I expected that.
Thanks for all the inputs.  Much appreciated.
Pictures will be forth coming as I start working on this project in earnest.

Just purchased tubes and tires. (starting with easy things.  :-)  )
I will be contacting Stutzman soon. (I assume it is an Amish shop judging by the last name and no computer set up)  - where I lived in MD we had 6 Amish farms behind our house and some of the families were Stutzman and or Stolfutz (sp?).  :-)  Familiar with how they work.

pcerkez

Does anyone know where to get the electric fuel pump rebuilt?
I did it once 20 years ago but, while it would pump good to keep the engine running, it did not have enough suction to initially start the fuel flow.  If I primed it first (with a squeeze ball hand pump), no problem.

tombia

Calimer wheel in Waynesboro. Pa. old time , been around for years