EXHAUST MANIFOLD STRAIGHT 8 1930-1952

Carlton

I´m looking for an inlet and exhaust manifold for my 1934 Hudson 8 (254) 

The question is.  Must be exactly a 34 manifold ? Or the Hudson manifolds from 1930 to 1952 straight inline 8 are the same or can be fitted straight ahead??   The Exhaust manifold seems to be the same for diferent years, but not sure.   

Thank you for the advice 
Regards 
Carlton 

Ric West IN

1933 T 8 and 34,35,and 1936 will fit your block.  Exhaust ports and 2 barrel carb make 37 and up not suitable.

Carlton

Ric West IN said:

1933 T 8 and 34,35,and 1936 will fit your block.  Exhaust ports and 2 barrel carb make 37 and up not suitable.

Thank you very much for the info 

bob ward

To expand on what Ric said, some of the exhaust manifold studs on the 37 to 52 engines are in different positions to those on the earlier engines. The early and late manifolds won't readily interchange.

Carlton

bob ward said:

To expand on what Ric said, some of the exhaust manifold studs on the 37 to 52 engines are in different positions to those on the earlier engines. The early and late manifolds won't readily interchange.

Bob, Thank you for the info

tombia

Ric West IN said:

1933 T 8 and 34,35,and 1936 will fit your block.  Exhaust ports and 2 barrel carb make 37 and up not suitable.

Seems odd that they will not fit, being I had run a 49 wide block manifold on my 33 T 8 for 20 years. had to shorten the front outlet tho.
 

JACK356

Can someone explain how the heater works in the manifold for the carburetor? Is it automatic? Manual? I'm in the middle of reassembly. Thank you

Geoff

It is supposed to have a flat coil spring holding the valve closed when cold, as things warm up it loses tension and opens up completely to allow the exhaust gas to go straight through instead of around the inlet chamber.  Usually these are either seized or  the spring is broken/missing.   Make sure the valve is open, and secure it in that position.  

JACK356

I have all the pieces intact. Visible in the photo of the engine before renovation. Even the spring is still in good condition.

JACK356

Cold position. Photo 1 or 2?






Original spring and system 1934

Geoff

Photo 1 is cold (exhaust gases go straight past  butterfly)

JACK356

Thank you;top

29sptphaeton

 I remove the valve on my 8’s and put a bolt in the bottom of the manifold. And make a cover for the top. Unless you are driving your car in cold weather you don’t need the valve. And when they are frozen you end up with a cracked manifold.

JACK356

One more question. In the cold position;photo 1;when I put the spring back on;I have to tighten it? If I stretch it, the axis turns in the hot engine position. What is the right method to mount the spring?

and to answer 29sptphaeton I like to stay original; it's been 90 years that the car is like that

29sptphaeton

Mine was original, after I peeled the furnace cement off the crack, I put an NOS original manifold on it without the heat flap so it will never crack. I’ve also replaced cracked cracked manifolds on jets because of frozen heat flaps. When they set in storage for winter in cold climates they can seize up.

JACK356

It has been at a standstill since 1954 and the flap was not seized

29sptphaeton

You’re a lucky guy. 

Geoff

If you are keeping  it original, the spring should hold the  valve in the closed position when cold.   As the manifold heats up the exhaust gas pressure will open the valve.  

JACK356

Closed c is good photo 1?

Because if I put like photo 1 and I mount the spring. It turns the valve as in photo 2?

Geoff

The is how it should be.   The exhaust gas pressure opens the valve, which is held closed by the spring when cold. 

JACK356

Thank you.Top for all good advice

JACK356

It is posed. It's progressing