Check level of Clutch fluid 1923 Super Six
How can I check the level of my clutch fluid?
I know how to take out the plug and am aware that you do not fill it to the top.
There is no dip stick to check the level. Anyone have any ideas about this?
Robert
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Maybe it was different in 1923, but I've never heard of a dipstick for clutch fluid. You simply drain and refill with the correct amount. And, in the prescribed maintenance interval you drain and fill it again. If you discover leakage under the car in the meantime, you may have to install a new gasket. Otherwise, you pretty much fill the clutch and leave it alone 'til the next fill.0
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The filler plug must be in the lowest position, and then filled so it overflows.0
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Geoff do you mean the square plug that I remove that I see in the hole in the clutch housing from under the hood? Does filling till it overflows is the 1 pint that is mentioned in the manual?Robert0
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That is correct. But it must be in the lowest position. So you need to remove the cover.0
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The "cover" you remove is (I believe) the flywheel cover, which is at the very bottom of the clutch housing. I think it may resemble this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/1926-Essex-Flywheel-Cover-1924-1925-1927-1928-1929-1930-1931-1932-by-Hudson-1923-/274300559439 which is currently on Ebay. Once the cover is removed, you can remove the plug which will be in the "six o-clock" position.
If you were to remove the plug when it's visible through the hole in the engine compartment, you'd be pouring in way more fluid than you need to!0 -
Here are two views of the clutch. In the bottom picture is the square fitting to drain the clutch. In this 6 o'clock position how to you add clutch fluid? In the past I moved this hole to the 12 o'clock position and added fluid from the top. Does it have only one hole in the clutch? I'm confused. Help
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Sorry, my mistake. Yes, this is the drain plug, and you fill it with HALF a pint of fluid according to the book. You do this when you can see the hole through the crankcase. A pint would be too much and may make the clutch slip, and hard to engage gears. My confusion came about due to the fact that the '27-29 Hudson and Essex had the hole above the lowest point, and you have to use a suction device to remove the old fluid;. My apologies.0
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Thanks GeoffMy mistake too. I was going from memory on the amount. Last time I changed it I did my own mix but since then I have bought the "real" Hudson clutch mix. Have read that Dextron #2 automatic transmission fluid works even better than the Hudson clutch mix. Do you have any thoughts on this or anyone else that is reading this?Robert0
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When you mean the "real" clutch oil, are you referring to the traditional Hudsonite brew (possibly from an old original can), or to the mixture that Wildrick is selling?
I cannot say which is better, but I have used Wildrick's for several years and am entirely happy with it. My gut feeling is that Doug has added some ingredients that improve the performance, but I don't know this is true. I do know that -- after my last clutch replacement many years ago (by someone other than Doug) -- the clutch had a slight chatter. I began to use Doug's version of the clutch oil, and was happy to discover that the chatter went away.0 -
If using A.T.F. it must be Dexron 30
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To answer Jon B it is the brew from Wildrick. That's what I'm going to use and see what happens. Thanks for your answer. Will hold off on the Dextron 3 for now.Robert0
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