Head stud kits

blondwookie

I am trying to locate a head stud kit for my 308 engine. I'm on the list for the new designed vortex head. At this moment, I have a brand new grade 8 head bolts with hardened washers. Will these head bolts work fine with the new head design?


Thanks Wookie 

50C8DAN

The stock Hudson bolts are 3" and should work fine with the new head w/ hardened washers.  I believe you said you are using 1/2" bolts.  The new head is only .210" thicker than stock.  That being said you certainly can use studs.  I personally find them a pain, especially when you have to remove the head.  The original designers of the head also used studs.  The ARP studs are recommended as they can be installed and removed easier due to the allen heads.

Here is a comment from their writeup:

Source for longer head bolts to deal with thicker head

 

      ARP bolts    https://arp-bolts.com/      and McMaster-carr  https://www.mcmaster.com

We used ARP Studs  1/2 x 4.25   as the cyl head is 2.2190  thick   ( these studs have an Allen Head wrench top center to ease the installation and Removal of the studs )

  We use Lug-Nuts turned up-side-Down on the 1/2 studs part #910-03912 fine thread from SPEEDWAY MOTORS

340 victory lane  lincoln NE 68528       with hardened washers.

Kdancy

Hudson Head  --Newly designed B&F aluminum head info

 1-Recommended spark plug     

            Champion N4C  14mm reach

    2-Thermostat & water neck choices

 The water regulator and housing used is the same as a GM Small block And the Regulator housing is of  the Swivel type and is Aluminum as most Auto Parts have them in stock.

   Thermostat used is Mr Gasket # 4363 160 degree.  Ford Mopar and GM . (Summit Racing)

Use a liquid style Permatex  Type of sealer on the hose regulator

elbow and under the regulator between it and the cylinder head to prevent corrosion

  3-Coolant chemistry

    The corrosion and erosion issues with aluminum heads are real. They can be dealt with by using distilled water with coolant and, additionally, not letting the engines sit dormant.  The curious chemistry of the corrosion inhibitors in coolants/antifreeze is such that at the location where electrolytic corrosion occurs between dissimilar metals, those inhibitors are consumed locally.  The coolant must be circulated by running the engine to leave coolant with inhibitors in the problem areas.  That is why vehicles that are driven daily or regularly do not have this problem and “hobby” cars that are run occasionally do.  You may have noticed where a radiator hose is clamped over an aluminum part (and there is therefore no circulation) you always find the white aluminum corrosion evident. So change the coolant annually and run the engine to open the thermostat weekly.  (Ivan Zaremba)

  4-Torquing instructions

  Recommend using the “Best Gasket” brand for 308 ci motors.

      “Anti-seize—sure!   Just torque them to the recommended figure.  The need for re-torqueing the head multiple times at intervals until it does “come down” any further is also key.  I don’t think I consider it done until after 500 miles of running and 3,4, or 5 torque sessions. (Ivan Zaremba)

  5-  Source for longer head bolts to deal with thicker head

       ARP bolts    https://arp-bolts.com/      and McMaster-carr  https://www.mcmaster.com

We used ARP Studs  1/2 x 4.25   as the cyl head is 2.2190  thick   ( these studs have an Allen Head wrench top center to ease the installation and Removal of the studs )

  We use Lug-Nuts turned up-side-Down on the 1/2 studs part #910-03912 fine thread from SPEEDWAY MOTORS 340 victory lane  Lincoln NE 68528       with hardened washers.

WABOOM

I made my own head studs out of grade 8 all-thread threaded rod and glued them into the block using LocTite Head Bolt Water Jacket sealant.  I cut the the threaded rod down to lengths aprox 3-1/4" long (can't remember the precise measurements), and grade 8 washers and nuts. Worked excellent. 

50C8DAN

From my writeup on this topic. Personally I think you are way better off using ARP 12pt SS head bolts than studs.  They are stronger than Grade 8 and easier to put on and take off:

12 pt Bolts – 7/16” and ½”

https://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamType=ALL&txtsearchParamMan=ALL&txtsearchParamVen=ALL&iLevel=2&subcat=193&txtsearchParamCat=61&txtCatName=2

if you want studs you will need to contact Allen, or Summit etc. as it is hard to find ARP individual head studs listed anywhere. You may want to contact ARP directly to find part numbers.  Also, McMaster Carr may be an alternative.

Stainless Steel Washers:

https://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamType=ALL&txtsearchParamMan=ALL&txtsearchParamVen=ALL&iLevel=2&subcat=478&txtsearchParamCat=61&txtCatName=2

Note: you can also find various head bolts and studs at other places, Summit, Jegs, Speedway, and of course McMaster-Carr.  If you are going to use studs keep in mind that ARP studs are keyed for hollow hex/allen sockets in the top so they are easier to install than traditional head studs.  

StepUp

What brand and/or type of thread sealant do you guys use on the bolts (or the studs) since these protrude into the block's coolant passages?  

50C8DAN

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9904

cchancel

Permatex high temperature thread sealant.

https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-temperature-thread-sealant-50-ml/

WABOOM

This is what I used.

StepUp

Thanks for the recommendations. Now I’m searching for a 262ci head gasket. My initial searches have yielded nothing. Plenty of 308 head gasket options but no 262s. I’ll start a new thread on this subject.

cchancel

Make sure to specify whether it is a wide block 262 (51-54) or narrow block 262 (48-50) when making the purchase.  I have noticed a significant lack of available wide block 262 head gaskets.  This company *might* have them:  https://bestgasket.com/vintage-engine-gaskets/

WABOOM

Loctite Head Bolt and Water Jacket Sealant