OD problems 1950 C6 HDM with the drive master stuff removed

snowshoe90aolcom

I got the shift problems resolved but now my OD won't work. I've followed 3 manuals....two for Hudsons and one from a generic manual. I have 6v through the relay and got the relay to click by following the instructions for the Drive Master type OD. (made a simple harness to test the relay which is a four wire relay). I ran a jumper wire from the Battery to the OD solenoid and it engages. I've test driven the car with the control switch (at the back of the transmission) hooked up and bypassed...still no OD. I've taken the governor off, taken it apart, cleaned it and cleaned all the terminals. Still just freewheels. At this point, I'm thinking of the toggle switch route if I can't resolve the problem(s). I also took the 4 wire plug off the kickdown switch and cleaned the terminals. Any suggestions are welcome.  Terry

snowshoe90aolcom

I have the kickdown switch off the car and tested the 4 terminals on the switch for continuity and I get nothing through any of them. The schematic shows from the relay to kickdown terminal #1 through the switch and out to terminal #4 when in OD but switches to terminal #2 and #3 when floored to get it to shift out of OD. Should there be continuity at all times at the #1 and #4 terminals on the switch before kicking it down?  Terry

Toddh

Do you have an R10 OD?   If so, did you check the continuity of the shift rail switch on the rear of the OD housing?

snowshoe90aolcom

Yes, it's an R10 and right now I have the shift rail switch bypassed, i.e., I have the two wires connected together. With the kickdown switch on the bench I have nothing in the way of continuity through any of the terminals no matter which combination of probe to terminal connections I check. With the plunger on the kickdown in the out position, I should be getting continuity through terminals 1 & 4 and with the plunger in, I should be getting continuity through terminals 2 & 3. Anyway, that's how I'm understanding the schematic. Terry

snowshoe90aolcom

I also have a 1950 Nash Statesman with the same OD transmission but the kickdown switch is located on the firewall so I tested the continuity on that switch (which also has 4 wire terminals) and sure enough, there's continuity through 1 & 4 and through 2 and 3 when the kickdown is applied. The Nash's OD circuit is different and much simpler, especially at the governor but it works perfectly every time. So now I will try to take my Hudson kickdown switch apart( or does someone have one they want to sell?) because it's not working anyway.  Terry

snowshoe90aolcom

Problem solved! One of the springs inside the kickdown switch had basically fallen off it's perch. It's the spring on the right and it should be standing UP to put pressure on the sliding contacts. I also cleaned up the brass contact areas, pressed it back together in a vice, installed it on the car and the OD now works. Terry

Geoff

I eliminate the kick-down switch, as it is a brutal mechanism.  Instead I have a toggle switch on the dash.

lostmind

I also bypassed the kick down switch with a momentary pushbutton switch, like the start button. Brutal was a good choice of words. You can kick it down without full throttle.

snowshoe90aolcom

Maybe someone could post an electrical schematic for the bypass? The car shifts real nice with the kickdown in place but the next time it gives me trouble I'm going to a toggle.

Toddh

The kick-down switch is a n/c momentary. All you need is a push-button or toggle that’s the same configuration 

snowshoe90aolcom

Thanks. I haven't done the toggle yet but I have another question. When driving along and I hit the cut in speed, I can hear a noise that I think is coming from the governor before it shifts into OD. Once it's in OD, the noise goes away. It sounds like the weights making noise as they spin around inside the governor. I've had it apart before this just to make sure the weights contracted while spinning with a drill. Should these weights and associated components be lubed inside the governor?  Terry

Geoff

Sounds like a problem with the solenoid itself, the internal relay not working properly until the overdrive engages, and the points then clicking in.   If the internal relay does not close, activating the hold-in coil, then  the  solenoid can click in and out.  

snowshoe90aolcom

Thanks Geoff. I did put another solenoid in that I had from a '53 OD transmission before I posted this question and they both did the same thing. When I pulled the cover off the original solenoid, I found the contacts to be pretty dirty and sooty like, especially the contacts on the side(hold in?) but not the contacts on top. I cleaned everything up so now I'll swap them back to see if it makes any difference.  Terry