Radiator repair

50C8DAN

My '50C8's radiator has sprung 3 leaks at the top tank joint.  I had been getting along with NAPA stop leak for several years, on the front seam but when I tried it again, due to reoccurrence, it developed (not surprisingly) more leaks on the back side. I am thinking of trying to fix these with the radiator in the car, by lowering the coolant level below the leaks, then cleaning fluxing and then resoldering the joints.  Has anyone done this?  Trying to find a radiator shop any more to have it cleaned and repaired is almost impossible anymore.

tigermoth

This may not be helpful at all, but I thought mine was leaking at the top seam, I was dreading the idea of repairing the honeycomb myself.  Having images of sealing one seam and opening up 3 more. Upon further inspection prior to starting the repair scheme I see it was a weeping radiator hose casting gasket. 

Depending on what you have, you MAY want to try a cold “solder” product like JB Weld. 

Regards, Tom

D7fever

You can try it, but chances are it won't work. Best way is to take the radiator out . Then unsolder the top tank and clean up the the joint and resolder. solder will not stick to dirty surfaces.  If you do it right the 1st time, you won't have to revisit the problem, might as well do the bottom tank as well. Good luck.

blondwookie

Radiator shops that actually do older radiator repairs are few and far apart anymore. The main problem is just how weak is the radiator core. This is the main question to be asking when thinking about doing soldering repairs on a radiator tank.

50C8DAN

My car has 40k miles and the original radiator.  I had it cleaned and pressure checked before I put it back on the road after a 20+ year hibernation.  It has seeped at the from the front for about 5 or so years, but now it has gotten way worse.  The core is in good shape as far as I can tell, never any leaks there.

Toddh

Shops that do this work are still around.  I have shop here in Winchester, VA and a long time shop in Baltimore that I’ve used.  Not sure where you’re located but if you’re close to the Mid-Atlantic area, I can pass on the information 

blondwookie

The Radiator core is a lot like arteries in human body. The leaks on top on the tank come from the fact that it is the intake from the thermostat. It goes down the radiator core to the water pump side of the radiator. From my personal experience, radiator core may not leak but it can still be rather weak. This is just my opinion. Find a local radiator shop and make sure that the core is good.

I live in Casper Wyoming and there's only one here in town. I'll take my radiator to him and let him check make sure the core and the radiator itself are in good shape. If they're not I will be a new one. I'll do the same thing with my tank. In the past I've used some epoxy type internal ceiling to reseal a fuel tank that leaked. It never leaked again for me and I used it for nearly 20 years.

I know that radiators and fuel tanks for Hudson's are extremely expensive. I looked the price of both and they are expensive for new ones. Good luck in checking yours out, the radiator and core.

Geoff

Essential that the job is absolutely clean before attempting to solder.   Take the radiator out, don't try and do it in place.  If the tank is cracked than use  thin brass strip and  solder over the crack and sweat the brass strip over the crack to re-inforce it.   Also check your pressure cap.  Mine was originally 7 lb, but I fitted a 4 lb. one and this eases the pressure in the system without affecting the  temperature in any negative way.  

Hudsy Wudsy

My recollection is that '50 was the first year for a pressure cap. At that it as only 4lbs. Higher pressure caps came later.