Timing Chain - 1929

andrewp

So its clear my hudson has slipped a tooth on the timing chain, it has taken me quite some time to figure it out , much thanks to both Spencer Yarrow and Geoff Clark for their help and support along the way, it is greatly appreciated . I have started tightening the eccentric gear with the correct tool, although it doesn’t seem to have done much but i will tighten it some more and hopefully it will tighten the chain sufficiently. My issue now is that to get it running, i had to move the ignition leads around one spot on the distributor cap. i have to have my advance/ retard lever pretty much fully retarded and it seems to run really well. However that feels a bit like cheating besides moving the lever cogs so i can get the advance/ retard lever back to “normal” at the 6 o’clock position, can you position the distributor differently, i.e what/how does the right angle rod connect to the accessory drive?  Can i rotate it around slightly? Im hoping this makes sense?

Lastly, i have a brand new spare timing chain, if i cant dial the stretch out, how hard are they to replace?

Geoff

 Don't replace the chain until you have fully adjusted the eccentric.  It will only go so far.  replacing the chain  entails removing the radiator (or raising it high enough to  clear the dampener),  removing the dampener, timing case and cam sprocket.   Back off the adjuster to minimum, fit the chain over the cam sprocket and offer up to place.   Adjust tension, and  replace everything.   Check that distributor timing is correct.  Yes, you can just loosen the  clamp and turn the distributor to any position.   Put piston No. 1  at t.d.c. with the  exhaust almost closed.  The manual says to set the chain position with 18 pins between the  punch marks "as when measuring distance.".  So- with the cam sprocket punch marks at 2-o-clock, and the crank sprocket  punch marks at 6 o-clock , you count the pin between the cam sprockets punch marks as pin zero, then from 1 thru 18.   At this setting the valves on No. 1 cylinder are rocking, and the distributor will be set to  fire on No. 6.   Your new chain will not have punch marks, so to make it easier to install, mark one pin with pain or  marker, and count from zero to 18 and mark  the last pin.   Have fun!  

andrewp

Thanks very much Geoff, as always greatly appreciated. I only seem to be able to turn the distributor about a quarter of a turn which isn't enough to compensate for the tooth jump? Is it possible to remove the distributor rotate and reenage further round if that makes sense? Its hard for me to work out because i dont know what the drive mechanism between the accessory drive and the distributor looks like? It may be a moot point in any case because I suspect i wont be able to dial out the slack and will have to replace the chain. Any gotchas on removing the dampener etc? Presume just mark exact location of each pulley etc?

Geoff

The distributor should turn freely once you undo the screw in the clamp. The long screw is on the opposite side to where the rod fits in  the arm.  The drive from the gear is a disc with a slot  in, and a bent rod on the bottom of the distributor fits in  the slot.