Wiring a clock 12 volts question
I am completing a 12 volt conversion on my 49.
My understanding is that re-wiring the 6 volt pos ground original clock to 12 volts negative ground is not a problem and that a resistor/ voltage reducer is not needed.
Is this correct?
Answers
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Polarity is not an issue. Not sure about the effect of 12 volts on the solenoid coil inside the clock.
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Does the solenoid coil control the accuracy?
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No, it simply flicks up a ratchet and tensions the spring that drives the clock mechanism. The accuracy is controlled by the little lever on the back of the clock in the arc-shaped hole.
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How come you are doing the 12v conversion?
regards, Tom
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So, unlike the fuel and temp gauges, and possibly the heater blower motor, the clock does not need a Runtz or similar voltage reducer to function properly. Is that correct?
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Because I choose to Tom.
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Will you put in a compatible starter motor that can handle the 12Volt ?
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I don't know, frankly. It would not hurt to put some sort of voltage reducer, but determining the value would be the problem. The solenoid coil is energised only for an instant. As as soon as it gets voltage to it the points flick open, and only contact again when the contact arm is pulled down by the ratchet.
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Installed a Snap mini starter. Love it
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If you are going 12V I would highly recommend changing the heater motor to 12V, it is not that expensive. Mine had been swapped to 12V neg ground, and the PO put a big honking resistor in line, it was hotter than heck when I used the heater and it reduced the speed. The other thing is I melted a battery cable with my old 6V starter running at 12V. I bought a new mini starter and never looked back. The old starters are boat anchors. All that being said my '50C8 is still 6V pos ground and rounds great.
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Thanks Dan, do you have a part number for the 12v blower motor? Any thoughts on the clock?
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The PM354 was a direct bolt in for my 53 Hornet
Murray Climate Control Blower Motor PM354 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)
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Does it require cutting the shaft any?
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I did not cut anything; it was a direct fit replacement.
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This is the one I bought. I can;t remember cutting the shaft any.
Works great. No comment on the clock. I had my '54 clock redone, and I don;t think they changed anything with the voltage. It is just a pair of contacts that causes the winder to flip.
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Ok Thanks.
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Thanks Dan
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attached is a pic of my newly purchased PM354 from O'rielly's. I have removed the 6 volt motor.
In comparing the motors the good is the 2 bottom studs line up fine. The 2 top studs near the shaft appear to need to be cut off just above the nut or the motor won't fit into the fan housing. Is this correct?
The other issue is with the shaft. The tip of the shaft, first 1/4", seems to fit properly into the fan housing. Then the collar attached to the shaft which is open on the flat side for the lock screw makes the shaft too wide to fit into the fan housing. Not sure how to remove the collar?
Comparing the old and new motors, the shaft on the new motor is about 1/4" longer or just about what is exposed above the collar. I read on another post that that 1/4" needs to be cut off.
So, cutting the 2 top studs and the shaft won't be a problem. But, I'm not sure the best way to remove the collar. Thought I'd better ask before I start hacking this new motor up.
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It has been about a year since I did mine. If I recall correctly, I just used a flat blade screw driver to slide the split collar off the motor shaft. Now that you mention the mounting bolts. I seem to recall cutting them after attaching the motor to the inner assembly so it would mount in the housing.
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But the length of the shaft worked without cutting?
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The top studs did have to be cut just above the nuts otherwise they would scrape the fan housing.
I also cut the shaft closer to what the stock 6 volt length was.
All back together and bench tested well.
Thanks to all who responded.
Can we get back to the clock now? lol
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