What am I Missing?? Car won’t start; got the dunderhead syndrome. HELP

Xerxes

This is a 1951 Super Six 262, approx 20K miles on rebuilt engine. Still is 6V POS and with original generator/ignition/wiring, etc.

I have reached “mechanic’s block” and am repeating the same tests with the same results (Isn’t that the definition of INSANITY?)

The car ran fine when parked in OCT 2023. Car sat outside (car cover) since OCT23.

I tried starting it in JUN 24 , and no go.  The starter would turn the engine over, but it would not catch or even show signs of wanting to catch. Even using starting fluid (ether spray), it would not start or even pretend to catch.

The problem is narrowed down to NO SPARK at the plugs. If I can get spark, I can figure out the rest.

Spark-related investigation:

1)     PLUGS: Pulled and gapped all plugs

2)     PLUG WIRES: No spark at ANY of the wires or plugs when grounded (hard to believe all the wires or plugs went bad at once)

3)     DISTRIBUTOR: Pulled the distributor and cleaned it,

a.      Cleaned and gapped points to 0.020”

b.      New condenser

c.      Replaced cap and rotor with known good ones from my spares

d.      Wire from dizzy to coil is good

4)     COIL: Tests good

a.      1.5 ohms between the two side terminals

b.      14,000 ohms between center contact and side terminal

IMPORTANT OBSERVATION: The wiring harness is worn in many places.

I am at an impasse and do not know what to try next to find why I have no spark.

Can it be something in the wiring harness?

Is there some point in the rest of the wiring harness that can affect the ignition system?

IS THERE A FUSE THAT AFFECTS IGNITION???

Appreciate any inputs.

Thanks.

JDutra

Is power getting to the ignition from the battery? I think the circuit to the ignition switch runs from the regulator to the horn relay to the circuit breaker under the dash. Perhaps there is an issue at or between one of those connections. Any other issues with other lights not working?

lostmind

Try disconnecting the power feed to coil and run a jumper from battery power to coil.

Should help narrow it down. If it has overdrive , the kick down circuit grounds the coil, worth checking out.

Xerxes

https://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/comment/254277#Comment_254277

I did not get a chance to work on the Huds today, but will try a direct connection between 6V batt and the coil, which might point out a problem in the wiring harness (as suggested by several others0.

As far as other circuits working, I will try the headlights tomorrow.

Xerxes

https://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/comment/254279#Comment_254279

Yep, I will try that tomorrow.

No OD.

engr1962

If you move the distributor back and forth, opening and closing the points with the distributor cap off, do you get a spark? Maybe the gap is too big and it isn't actually closing?

Xerxes

Engr: yes i did that = no spark. Plug gap was unchanged from the last time it ran.

Baf part is that i have not yet gotten around to any of the other suggestions from this page.

Too many competing requirements around the house, and i dont work 12hr days anymore (not even 8hr days!).

engr1962

if there is power to the coil, and it is connected to the distributor and you have a good condensor, you will get spark from opening and closing the points. If not, you likely have a dead coil. You can measure it with an ohm meter and see the 2 windings.

tigermoth

Is the distributor well grounded?

regards, Tom

Xerxes

https://openforum.hetclub.org/discussion/comment/254342#Comment_254342

Had measured dizzy at both points: reads good...something under 1.5 and over 14,000.

hasktavern1

I know that you cleaned and adjusted the points, but try replacing them. I've had situations where the points look fine, but refuse to do their part.

terraplane8

Try another condensor too.