Hinge pin removal
I’m stuck. I’m trying to remove the rear doors hinge pins on my 36 Hudson. I bought this Bob drake hinge puller kit and it’s been a great tool for the front doors. But the bottom hinges on the rear doors are giving me trouble. The short pin in the kit (1”) is maxed out because the hex head bolt is hitting the lip on the body where the fender meets. And the next longer pin (1.5”) is too long to allow the bolt to get threaded into the bracket. I’ve tried hammering the pin up, but it won’t budge. I’ve considered grinding length off the bottom of the 1.5” pin but wasn’t sure how the hardened pin would handle it. Any advice?
Comments
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I solved it. I ground a few millimeters off of the pins that were too long but then ran out of length for the next pin before the driving bolt would rub on the body. I ended up ordering a second set of pins to have enough runout to drive the hinge pin all the way out. It took a couple of combinations but now I’ve got a much more stepped range of diving pins!
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I believe that only the top part of the pin has a slight interference fit in the body part of the door hinge. Sometimes when a pin gets rusty it can be as strong as a weld. When you remove the pins consider drilling a very small hole in the hinge for lubrication. As the holes wear oval, and you may need to replace the pins, consider getting an adjustable reamer to ream the holes round again. You may get lucky finding another make NOS pins that you can use.
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A pin can be made oversize or other size and then knurled for upper area if needed. Any machinist - can make one. Hole can be reamed round again. The difficulty as I recall is removing the old one in a restricted space. You may want to decide which part to be the replaceable or consumable part - the hinge pin or the door hinge. I would try for a softer replaceable pin rather than having a hardened pin wallow out the door hinge. Just my thoughts on the issue. Gert
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And
Barry's idea for oiling is a good one - they wear from running dry.
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