3 Spd Column shift adjustments
I noticed it was hard to get the car into 2nd gear, and found an adjustment thta seems to have an effect on that. It's a bolt that allows the cable gap to change, fairly close to where the linkage goes thru the firewall.
Now I'm noticing, all of a sudden, the "shape" of the H pattern has changed. The "H" is, um, taller. And 3rd gear engages somwehree in the middle of the downstroke before it hits the bottom of the H.
This sort of thing seems hard to describe.
1: How can I adjust the shift pattern. i.e., where are all the adjustments and what do the effect.
2: How do I tell if my wet clutch is wet? I'm not sure where ti put the "Hudsonite".
Gone thru the engine and it purrs. Now it's the xmission's turn.
Thanks for all the support;
-Chris
Now I'm noticing, all of a sudden, the "shape" of the H pattern has changed. The "H" is, um, taller. And 3rd gear engages somwehree in the middle of the downstroke before it hits the bottom of the H.
This sort of thing seems hard to describe.
1: How can I adjust the shift pattern. i.e., where are all the adjustments and what do the effect.
2: How do I tell if my wet clutch is wet? I'm not sure where ti put the "Hudsonite".
Gone thru the engine and it purrs. Now it's the xmission's turn.
Thanks for all the support;
-Chris
0
Comments
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There are adjustments on the cable, and the linkage that actually shift gears. You need to adjust the cable so that when the lever is "down" for the 2nd. 3rd. gearshift, the transfer lever is shifted right over to engage that shift rail in the transmission, and when the gear lever is "up" for low/reverse, that the little lever is right back again. This is easiest seen with the lfoorboards out. To adjust the position of the lever when in neutral you can adjust the length of the shift linkages. for the clutch you need to get underneath, remove the clutch cover, and undo one of the filler plugs in the front face of the flywheel, turn the flywheel, and see if any fluid comes out before it gets to the bottom position. Would be a good idea to change the fluid anyway, so drian it out and put a third of a pint of new fluid in. And you need to get yourself a service manual, it is money well spent.
Geoff.0 -
Can you refill from the bottom, by moving the flywheel so the drain/fill hole is not on the bottom, but is high enough in the rotation to hold the fluid, but not so high that it disappears into the bell housing? Got the idea from somewhere that that was possible (would require a flexible funnel, or a turkey baster to refill, of course).0
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Well, if you had the right shaped dingus on the end of a pump oiler you might be able to fill from underneath, but by that time, the hole would be above the starter where you're supposed to fill it.
I use a length of hose which I ground a taper on the end so it fits tightly in the fill hole, and jam a funnel in the top. Then use either a magnet in the socket or a piece of rag to hold the nut from falling out until the threads catch.0 -
I've got a service manyal. I'll dig it out and see what it has to say, but your description matches parts of what I've seen.
Thanks very much;
-Chris0 -
Why would anyone try and fill the clutch from under the car? When it's so easy to fill from the top.0
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It wasn't a case of filling the clutch, but to see how much fluid was in there that I was advising on. And you have to take the clutch cover off to drain it anyway, if it is being changed. Certainly it's easiest to fill it from the hole behind the starter motor.
Geoff.0
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