Tranny question, part 2

Unknown
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Ok, figured out the column shift. Discovered the collar was slipping so the up and down motion was not very good. So I drilled a hole and machined a screw-in pin made from a #8 hardness bolt. It slips no more. :-)



The car drove nicely for a few mines. Never really got 2nd geer to work.



Now it won't go into 2nd or 3rd at all. It will shift into ALL gears when not moving and engine is idle, but grinds when attempting to shift into 2nd and 3rd when in motion.



The tranny seems to whine a little louder, maybe. The clutch disengages fully enough to stop the car from moving, so I don't think it's the clutch.



I suspect 1 or more of the following:



1. The clutch is dry.

2. The clutch needs to disengage more to allow shifting.

3. The gearbox is dry?



I think this symptom is specific enough to point to a known cause. Ideas? Am I killing my tranny by driving with a dry clutch?



Thanks yet again;

-Chris



http://moltar.chrishull.com/pics/Hudson24Sept2006/frontwithvisor2.jpg

Comments

  • PAULARGETYPE
    PAULARGETYPE Senior Contributor
    First Off Nice Photo Of Car



    Well I Would Put Clutch Fulid In It First Drain It And Add 1/3 Pint Of Tranny Fulid If You Don't Have Clutch Fulid And Check The Gear Box And Add Fulid If It's Low 90 Wt Gear Oil Try That And Then Let Us Know It Soulds To Me Like Some Things Out Of Adjustment Though :)



    Hudsonly

    Paul
  • PAULARGETYPE wrote:
    First Off Nice Photo Of Car



    Well I Would Put Clutch Fulid In It First Drain It And Add 1/3 Pint Of Tranny Fulid If You Don't Have Clutch Fulid And Check The Gear Box And Add Fulid If It's Low 90 Wt Gear Oil Try That And Then Let Us Know It Soulds To Me Like Some Things Out Of Adjustment Though :)



    Hudsonly

    Paul





    What fluid should I put in the clutch? I have some "Hudsonite", always wondered what that really is. :-)



    Hate the idea of getting under the car, but all that stuff is down there. Or do I open up the floor to access the gear box?



    I have a shop manual. I'm sure it explains all this. Anything else I should know that it might not cover?



    Hudsonly;

    -Chris
  • If you cant get in 2nd and 3rd gear but 1st and reverse is ok I believe you will need to adjust the cross over cable. The clutch oil can be changed without getting under the car unless you drop the plug and then you will have to remove the flywheel pan to get the plug.
  • when you drilled the shaft and put in a bolt or set screw you have impeded the rod that connects to the crossover cable, looK for another shifter shaft wilth a tilght shift arm and you will solve your problems, BILL ALBRIGHT
  • Jon B
    Jon B Administrator
    Filling the transmission (with oil) or the clutch (with clutch fluid) is a minor operation that should take you less than 15 minutes, total.



    If your Hudson's tranny is similar to my '37's, you simply get the car high enough to slide under (mine is that high already), remove a plug on the side, then start putting oil into the hole until it starts to seep back out the hole. I use a cheap oil can with finger lever to move the oil uphill into the fill-hole.



    Bleeding / refilling the clutch is done from the engine compartment. If you want step-by-step instructions just hollar, I or anyone can take a few minutes to place them here. The only 'specialty tool' you need is some way to convey the Hudsonite from the bottle to the small fill-hole in the flywheel. Auto parts stores have any number of devices for this, including rubber tubes with small funnels at one end.
  • bill a wrote:
    when you drilled the shaft and put in a bolt or set screw you have impeded the rod that connects to the crossover cable, looK for another shifter shaft wilth a tilght shift arm and you will solve your problems, BILL ALBRIGHT



    YOU WIN! I did the driveway test again and the cable seems a little obstructed. I disassembled the collar, and yep, the pin I made hits the cable a little bit.



    I'm going to file the pin down a little, and use some JB Weld. Or research other ways to make the shift arm tight. I'm open to suggestions, but it looks like a simple problem. The shaft has perferated ridges, but the arm is smooth. I suspect the arm was once not smooth and is made of a softer metal.



    Will still change out my fluids, cause that's always a good idea.



    Thanks;

    -Chris
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