Steering shaft/worm question

SuperDave

In my quest for power steering, I am into a serious modification of the steering shaft. My question is.. How do you ,or can you, remove the worm from the shaft? I can't find any breakdown of the assembly in the factory literature.. It was supplied as one part so the parts book and mechanical proceedure manuals don't cover the parting of these pieces. They appear to be splined, I would like to keep the shaft as long as possible to use with a universal steering joint. Anyone done this?

Davew:o

[Deleted User]

I have never tried this on a Hudson, but generally these things are impossible to separate without ruining something.

SuperDave

Rod wrote:

I have never tried this on a Hudson, but generally these things are impossible to separate without ruining something.

Rod,

You got that right!.. I was not planning on using the worm again, so destruction wasn't a problem. I found that it had a very shallow course spline. It was obviously a very tight intereference fit. After getting it apart, it was apparent that it was never intended to be takenm apart. I used a torch carefully to split the worm down one side. That expanded it enough to knock it off and spared the shaft. Now to find a bearing to use on the bottom end of the shaft to support the stresses. I found a new bearing in my junk box that appears to fit the shaft, will have to shim up the outer diameter to fit in the sleeve. Onward and forward..

Davew Fl

bob ward

What are your plans for the power steering Dave? What components are you looking at using?

SuperDave

bob ward wrote:

What are your plans for the power steering Dave? What components are you looking at using?

Bob,

To tell you the truth, I am experimenting.. I Bought all the Isuzu stuff for converting the steering box to PS. After seeing a stepdown conversion using the same parts, I opted out. The box had to be mounted in a strange position and some alteration of the center steering bell crank was required. I just didn't like the finished look.That installation also lost a little turning radius. perhaps it will work better on a pre stepdown? Maybe the stuff I bought is the wrong stuff?

I then looked at the pictures of the Bob Dietrick R&P setup. I now have the GM rack installed, but I'm not happy with the shorter tie rod on the drivers side. The Hudson tie rod end will bind when the suspension is unloaded. Bob used different tie rod ends than the original, They have a small offset, haven't found out which one. I have the pictures he sent me, but no text to refer to. Lost all that.. Bob's email address is no longer valid. I mounted the R&P as far back and as high as I could. So...When the car is on the ground the tie rods are parallel to the ground.(that is good) The rack is still a little more forward than i would like, but the oil pan is in the way. I installed the shorter steering arms I got from you and that helped tremendiously! The total lock to lock is just under 3 turns. No lost turning radius.

I have exchanged emails with Walt Mordeti and his R&P conversion uses a Ford Aerostar R&P. Perhaps it's shorter and will correct the binding problem.? He bought all the stuff from another member in Nebraska. I have emailed him, but not recieved a reply yet.. The biggest problem with the GM R&P is the bump steer that is induced by having shorter tie rods than the original. They travel through a shorter arc and will change the toe in/out a good deal more than the Hudson legnth. Having two different legnths is a further aggrivation and will make the car self steer when it goes over a bump or through a dip. How much? Dunno..I May find out soon.

One of those center takeoff R&P's from down under would be the berries..

Regardless of which parts I end up with, the steering shaft needs some extensive modification. I have it out, the worm is removed and I am going to tackle the mounting problem today. I have a 49 with the single lever shift . The bell crank for the shifter is mounted on the lower steering housing. I will have to put that back somehow.. Also the steering tube must be in exactly the same position as it was, or the linkage adjustment might not correct for any difference. I had a brain storm last night that I will look into today. I am wondering if I can cut away a large portion of the steering box housing and keep the part that located the shaft tube and the shift bellcrank. I may be able to install a universal joint on the end of the inner shaft and still clear the remaining housing. I will then only have to replace the bearing that the upper worm supplied. I'm having fun..

Dave w:D

bob ward

Re SuperDave's post above.......



You really do need to have tie rods the same length as the originals otherwise bump steer WILL be a problem. I know of a stepdown where a standard R&P with shorter tie rods was fitted and it was a handful to keep on the road. Was too unstable to exceed 60mph and even then it took a lot of concentration.



You've probably already figured out that the reason the front suspension A arm pivots angle back so steeply on a stepdown is so their axis goes through the centre tie rod ends. Unless you are going to change the A arms you will need to maintain that relationship in your new steering set up.



Re the centre take-off R&Ps, you will be able to find them in the US, they were fitted to the GM front wheel drive J Series "World Car"of the early 80s. Every US and international GM division produced a version.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_J_platform

[Deleted User]

Walt here, my rack and pinion is from a Buick, year 1995 and the tie rod ends are from a Ford Aerostar My steering arms have been shortened one inch to give me three and one half turns lock to lock. I'm enjoying this set up, as you know I drive this baby coast to coast.

Unknown

Walt is there any chance of you posting a picture of this setup? Or emailing me a couple of different angles of it. Thanks Jim

SuperDave

Bob and anyone else following the thread,

I found a R&P off a 90 Cavalier. It has the center mounting of the tie rods. It's nice to have a friend that has a salvage lot! I got the whole thing including rod ends and hoses. ($10.00) it will require a different mounting than i have now, but should all but eliminate bump steer. It may have more effect on Ackerman than anything else. The inner pivot point is going to be a bit forward of the original point The fact that I have shorter steering arms is going to help cancel some of that out. The length of the tie rods will be about the same as the originals. I also picked up a pair of Aerostar/ Ranger tie rod ends at another salvage yard ($20.00). I think I'm going to like this setup better than the Buick/Olds rack i have now.

The biggest problem I had was trying to find a picture of the R&P on line. All the sources used a generic picture of a standard R&P so I couldn't see what one looked like. I took some pictures of it if anyone wants to see what it looks like email me at HETdwad12939@earthlink.net remove the HET part.

Back to the cutting torch...............

Davew