Body Isolation
Comments
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Howardspu wrote:On a 36 Terraplane, would 1/16 neoprene pads work well between frame and body? I have not been able to find material similar to the original that is
impervious to water.
Make sure you're using a closed-cell foam, I thought neoprene might aspbsorb some moisture...
http://www.foambymail.com/closedcell.html0 -
You might also try a small chunk of conveyor belting, it comes in various thicknesses usually between 3/16 and 1/4 inch and comes usually in black. I do have some thats white. Its rubberized on both sides. You can cut with bandsaw,or of you need a round piece you can use a hole saw. Lou Cote0
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we use pieces of old mudflaps from heavy trucks to do this sort of job. or new ones if you wanna spring for one down at the truck spares store. its about 1/8" thick and does not absorb water. you also get a choice of hardness depending where you shop (or in our case which truck you pulled it off)0
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What about polyurethane? You can buy it in strips with adhesive on one side. Different thicknesses are available.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ catalog page 34290 -
For mount cushions I've used rubber from old printing press rollers and drilled the body-bolt holes through them, then contact cemented them to the frame. Then I lowered the body onto the chassis --- alll set, not going anywhere. You could stack it and contact cement it together if you need additional thickness. May be the same as the conveyor roller material mentioned above.0
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Hi Howard, how is it going. I bought a roll of a canvas material that they call, "anti-squeak" from C & G Ford here in Escondido and I used it between the body and frame on my '36T sedan. It seems to work fine.0
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Hello. Im restoring a 36 Terra also. Where specifically do the pads go? I remember some long narrow pads/gasket type material on top of the chassis & under the mudguards/fenders. Didnt see anything elsewhere. I was going to use a 1/16 thick lino (floor covering). I would appreaciate a reply. Regards barry
hudsonsa@sa.chariot.net.au0 -
Hockey pucks work great for stuff like that. I use them under the feet of my air compressors. You could slice them as thick or thin as you need on a bandsaw.0
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Hi Barry, Where are you and how far along are you?
Pads I know of are :
Approx. 3/16 T. pad at each radiator mounting bolt
Approx. 7/8 W. X 1/16 T. strip between front fenders and frame
There was thicker padding between the hump on the frame center cross
over and the body floor hump
There were square pieces of padding(approx. 1/8 T.) between body and frame at the first seven mounting bolts from the front. My 36 is a P.U. so
don't know about the rear of a sedan. Hopes this helps, Howard0 -
Richard, Thanks for the tip. Are you going to bring your 36 to the
Western Meet in April? Howard
Also, thanks to all the others who answered my question.0 -
Thanks Howard. Body is painted & bolted down, upholstery is finished. Havent done the front guards or radiator yet, so I will get that part right. Im located in South Australia. My car is a 36 Terra basic el cheapo model. I dont have the little extra features like the wind out quarter windows. Mine are fixed. The wind out models had a little gutter to collect any rain, and a rubber tube running down the wheel arch to drain away the water. Amazing.0
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Howard, I hope to have it finished in time for the Western Regional. I got very close to finished last spring and then I didn't work on it at all for about 6 months. However, I am back on it now with a vengance.
My 4 door sedan had a gasket like material on top of the frame, between it and the body. So I put the anti-squeak material under the entire body so it doesn't "squeak" wherever the body meets the frame. I do have thicker material in the places that you mentioned. Lots of good suggestions here for those places.
By the way, for you pre-war car guys. I just helped K-Gap get the stainless steel grilles that go into the exterior mounted horns, there are two sizes of these and they are now available from K-Gap. So you can all throw away those incorrect Ford chrome screens!!!!!0
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