Luck runs out for Hudsonkid....

Unknown

The one tahoe I looked at was a 99, and had 92K on it. Price was $7999. Not as many options, but still decent enough. I figured, if they gave me enough to buy this vehicle, cover my deductible, towing and storage, which would come to ~8600 I would be fine.



I figure the time I had mine, and the work I have done to it during the last year, should amount to something.



I think that if they come in line with 8500, I might say, how about 9000. Just to see if there is anymore room. If they say 7000 or 7500 we might have a problem.



My Tahoe was kept clean, minimal issues, mechanically, it was great, appearance it was pretty nice. It had a light ding or two, and maybe a minor scratch or two, but a recon would have made it a real standout on the lot for sale.

faustmb

If you have a space to store it, buy the wreck back for parts. Didn't you just put new brakes in it? Sell what you don't need or want to offset the difference.



Good luck with the insurance company!

Unknown

If it can be bought for $1000 or about, I might. Maybe me and hudsondad can go halfsies.... he might want a few parts, I hate to get rid of my heated seats.

rambos_ride

hudsonkid wrote:

The one tahoe I looked at was a 99, and had 92K on it. Price was $7999. Not as many options, but still decent enough. I figured, if they gave me enough to buy this vehicle, cover my deductible, towing and storage, which would come to ~8600 I would be fine.

I figure the time I had mine, and the work I have done to it during the last year, should amount to something.

I think that if they come in line with 8500, I might say, how about 9000. Just to see if there is anymore room. If they say 7000 or 7500 we might have a problem.

My Tahoe was kept clean, minimal issues, mechanically, it was great, appearance it was pretty nice. It had a light ding or two, and maybe a minor scratch or two, but a recon would have made it a real standout on the lot for sale.

You have to be armed with all your recent receipts for parts and repairs to get as much as possible. Personally I'd go with whatever route means NO CAR PAYMENTS!

I've had a 4x4 now of some type for over 25 years straight. My 90 GM 4x has the ABS in the rear and it doesn't help at all.

Rarely will braking as you are sliding be enough to slow you down...sometimes if the ice is thin or soft enough the tires might find pavement to bite on...as soon as you start to slide you pickup speed...the best thing to do (2x or 4x) is to keep the rig under power by decelerating or accelerating depending on whats in front...unless you are in a really low gear decelerating under the compression of the engine still gives power to the drive wheels and allows some ability to steer...as soon as the brakes lock and you slide you have no control.

AND ALWAYS REMEMBER DOC HUDSON...."You gotta turn right to go left..."

I've often thought it would be a great idea to develop a technology that would allow you to easily freeze a large open area for which you could have driving classes on handling your vehicle under extreme ice/slippery conditions.

[Deleted User]

they do! it's called a parking lot in iowa. lol

[Deleted User]

hudsonkid wrote:

The one tahoe I looked at was a 99, and had 92K on it. Price was $7999. Not as many options, but still decent enough. I figured, if they gave me enough to buy this vehicle, cover my deductible, towing and storage, which would come to ~8600 I would be fine.



I figure the time I had mine, and the work I have done to it during the last year, should amount to something.



I think that if they come in line with 8500, I might say, how about 9000. Just to see if there is anymore room. If they say 7000 or 7500 we might have a problem.



My Tahoe was kept clean, minimal issues, mechanically, it was great, appearance it was pretty nice. It had a light ding or two, and maybe a minor scratch or two, but a recon would have made it a real standout on the lot for sale.

I am currently driving a 99 Tahoe that has 100K on it. The vehicle is 2WD and is an LTS varient. It has all the bells and whistles save a moon roof. Heated leather seats etc. The vehicle is super clean, Texas all it's life so rust and also dent free. BIL is a car salesman who sold it to me three years ago for 9K... lots below the book... recently offered 8k in trade for newer version. Still have not traded as the replacement Tahoe must have leather... and be Black outside... This is my 4th Tahoe ... used to drive as OTR salesman. All gave excellent service and minimum maintenance... save the front brakes which are crap on all of them... just bit the bullet and replaced all that carp when I got the vehicle. Point of this ... if you can see vehicles outside the rust belt they maybe better value in the long run?



BTW ... have had a reoccuring radiator leak ... small puddle under the vehicle and constantly drying our overflow tank. Thought it was a hose... turns out the radiator in that vehicle has PLASTIC tanks which are swedged onto the radiator. Eg non repairable... all the local autoparts stores want $299.95 for a replacement item. So with a bit of Internet searching ... found one on ebay for $145 shipped to my door. Love the vehicle, hate the cost of parts and repairs.



Good Luck ... hope your bruising etal is mending well.

JP

Hello Hudsonkid--



This message may be a bit different from the others. Something happened (poll delete) to make you want to forget/quit this forum. All kinds of advice has come in after your accident--but, I think that despite differences in opinion about whatever--- this forum plays an important role. It provides information to those who need it--and I'll bet the longtime Hudson folks can think about how easy it is to exchange information today--here--on this forum, compared to communication in the past. OK--maybe in the "olden days" things were a bit more personal, and face to face. Instant communication in those earlier days was either sporadic at meets, or a bit more difficult. It is great today to get so much response, and technical information, and yes-- to consider different opinions. I may be "well educated" but that does not make me an automatic authority on any subject that comes down the pike. I like Hudsons, and I want to learn more from those people--you people-- yourself included-- who have knowledge and expertise that I can "profit" from. I am not referring to dollars here.



I hope you have noticed, after this accident, which came on the heels of this problem that you had with the forum., that folks who communicate here care about your well-being. Oh well--- what to do with the Tahoe--yes I know that dealing with insurance companies is or can be a hassle. After something like this, where you could have been more severly injured--or worse--having a poll deleted should seem a bit more trivial. Yes--it was frustrating, and maybe you were wronged, really, I don't know about that.



But between the lines and---sometimes in the lines--what I see is that the Hudson folks on this forum--are exhibiting concern and good wishes about your well-being.



Take care of yourself, heal, and don't worry-- Spring is coming, even in your part of the country.



JP

Unknown

Ken, you're right, Tahoes are supposed to be al Black. Mine was. Leather too... Heated seats, yup....



I wish I could find a replacement in black, that was as nice.



I drove the blue one I spoke of above with 92K on it. It drove fine, except for a tiny miss, which the dealer said they wanted to tune up yet, and was aware of, but was not overly impressed with the fact that this one had cloth 60/40 with manual passenger, no console (or overhead) minimal options, power windows, locks, mirrors, keyless entry, no towing package, etc.... LS not an LT.



If I go this route, likely, I'll offer 7K or about, I just don't see it as a 8K tahoe, and 7500 seems a bit high, for the condition.



The steering wheel has a wear spot at 12o'clock, thru to the metal, mine with 110K did not, makes me wonder. The oil pressure wasn't as good as mine. Mine always ran 55lbs while driving, this one was ~45/maybe 50 driving (closer to 45) which is around 2000RPM, and mine was usually closer to 2500RPM, they both had 20lbs at idle, so that was a bit more reassuring, but with all of the signs, it seems to be a bona fide 93K vehicle.



It shifted nice, ran strong, 4WD worked, etc... I didn't mind the cloth, the color was fine, it was smoked in. The interior was decent, not perfect, better than mine, not by much, but my kids were unleashed on mine for 40K miles, and they're little piggies.... I think mine would have cleaned up better.



I got to think about it, and maybe waiting a few days is what I need to do.



I need to look at a few more in the price range, to see what I can get.

Unknown

I know I'm jumping on this kinda late, but I just read your original thread, Hudsonkid, and I'm glad to see you decided to wear those seat belts.



I wear them religiously in every car that has them, including my dad's '64 Chev Bel Air (stock equipment) and our '54 Kaiser Manhattan (aftermarket from previous owner). I have gotten so used to wearing it that it's actually difficult for me to drive without it on, sort of like running around in public without pants on!



I had an '80 Chevy POS Impala once with crappy rear brakes. One night going to my 3rd-shift job I had back about 10 years ago, I braked and tried to swerve around some crap that fell off someone's truck--a common occurrence around here in hayseed country--and naturally the car started to fishtail, what with the rear brakes being what they were. I wound up into the ditch, bounced up over a farm driveway over the top of a culvert, and back down on the other side. If it weren't for my seatbelt, I would've gone through the windshield. No injuries, but I was damn shook up. Amazingly enough, once the wrecker got my car out of the ditch, I was able to drive it away, none the worse except for a few minor dents. That experience made a seat-belt believer out of me.



I am in the process of installing rear lap belts in the '54 Kaiser. Wisconsin now has child safety-seat laws, and even though my Kaiser is probably grandfathered, I want to be able to haul kids around without any hassle from the law... OR the kids!

Unknown

HudsonKid, glad you're OK. Sorry to be in on this so late but I haven't been on the computer much lately.



I am an Auto Claims Supervisor for a major insurance company and some of the advice given on this subject is spot on the money. Gather all your recent receipts and documentation for any upgrades, they should add value to the vehicle.



On the subject of the insurance company buying you a replacement vehicle, it's probably not going to happen. Most policies are written as ACV (Actual Cash Value) policies which means "what is your vehicle worth sitting in the parking lot", not what a dealer is asking for their vehicle. That being said, most companies are mandated to use a third party valuation service so that there is the least liklihood of manipulation of the numbers by the vehicle owner or the adjuster.



If you disagree with the valuation of your vehicle, you can go on the internet and find comparable vehicles for sale privately. Usually the asking price will be diminished by 10% or so because as everybody knows the asking is not the take price. Also, since you are the insured (1st party) in this case, you probably have an appraisal clause in your policy. What this means is that you will be required to hire an independent appraiser and the insurance company will hire an independent appraiser. After both appraisers have inspected the vehicle, they will get together and determine ACV value which will be the required settlement value. I have seen these come in above the original valuation and I have seen them come in below the valuation so it's a crap shoot.



Good luck, again I'm glad you are OK.