rear stabilizer (panhard bar)

Edwardjohnsr

After much effort I now have the big 5/8 inch hex nuts off both ends of the stabilizer bar. I expected that the bolts would then just pull out easily. However, they won't budge. Are these bolts threaded into the brackets that are attached to the axle and frame? If you have removed your stabilizer bar (panhard bar) please help me with this dilemna.

As usual, thanks for your help.

Ed

Unknown

My bolts came off very easily. In your case, try some penetrating oil and a little tap with a hammer. To prevent damaging threads, put a block of wood over the end of each bolt before you tap it.

Park_W

Ed, is the suspension "hanging," i.e., is the car on jacks under the frame? If so, there's quite a bit of side pull on those bolts. Put a jack under the diffy and raise it to near normal position, and you should be able to get the bolts out. When putting them back in, again have the diffy in near normal position. Even then it may appear that the bar is about 1/4" too short. Put a block under the LH spring shackle bolts, then lower the jack under the diffy a little. As the axle drops down on the right side, the upper end of the bracket on top of the axle housing will shift to the right a bit, allowing you to line up the holes nicely.

Unknown

Wouldn't it stand to reason that someone working on the underside of a car would have it jacked up? My car was jacked up and I had no problems.

[Deleted User]

Vintage style car lifts lifted the car by supports under the A arms and the rear axle, leaving the suspension geometry the same as if it was sitting on the ground.

Unknown

Dave53-7C wrote:

Wouldn't it stand to reason that someone working on the underside of a car would have it jacked up? My car was jacked up and I had no problems.

You can jack the car UP to work under it........Great idea I'll have to give it a try

Edwardjohnsr

Thanks for all the input. The car is in fact sitting on the floor. Its a tight squeeze but I can reach the stabilizer bar. I will continue to hit the bolts with penetrating oil and keep working on them.

Ed

Park_W

My question, friends, was whether it was jacked up with stands under the frame, or under the axle housing. Makes a big difference.

[Deleted User]

Park W wrote:

My question, friends, was whether it was jacked up with stands under the frame, or under the axle housing. Makes a big difference.

Park is giving the correct advise to replace the bar. When the car is on the ground and at normal ride height, the Panhard bar is rightfully under tension. To remove the bar the tension must be removed. If you are a Hudsonite blessed with a thin physic and can crawl under an stepdown that is not jacked then what you need to do is raise the left rear spring to take tension off the bar mounting stud. I would make sure that there is a jack stand in place after jacking the spring. If you raise the car ... do as Park has stated ... raise the differential to a level position place a jack stand under it and then jack the left spring. In any case the key is to take the tension off the bar... works everytime.

Clutchguy

Edwardjohnsr wrote:

After much effort I now have the big 5/8 inch hex nuts off both ends of the stabilizer bar. I expected that the bolts would then just pull out easily. However, they won't budge. Are these bolts threaded into the brackets that are attached to the axle and frame? If you have removed your stabilizer bar (panhard bar) please help me with this dilemna.

As usual, thanks for your help.

Ed

Ed,the info here is good ,but you are probably experiencing the top bolt won't come out"BLUES"The top bolt,needs to have the tension relieved,but also has a sleeve that is in the rubber.This sleeve is rusted onto the bolt,and the hole in the upper bracket is just enough to slide the bolt thru it,so it won't let it just slide out.Penetrating oil is the best advise if it turns on top and won't come out.You might want to put the nut back on the bolt before hammering on it.If you have access to an air hammer with a punch type bit,a few hits makes it come out just a little.Hammer it back & forth a few times,spraying it generously with the penetraing oil and it will probably come out.Here in the rust belt,ALL screws,nuts,bolts and retainers have this same attitude!!!!

Clutchguy

Edwardjohnsr wrote:

After much effort I now have the big 5/8 inch hex nuts off both ends of the stabilizer bar. I expected that the bolts would then just pull out easily. However, they won't budge. Are these bolts threaded into the brackets that are attached to the axle and frame? If you have removed your stabilizer bar (panhard bar) please help me with this dilemna.

As usual, thanks for your help.

Ed

Oops,almost forgot,the lower bolt is usually welded to the bracket,and should pry off after the tension is removed.You will probably see the sleeve I described stuck to the bolt.Also when reinstalling your new bushings,clean most of the rust and build-up of rubber out of the bar.I apply silicone paste[NAPA-Sil-glyde]to the bushings,bolts and inside the bar.This makes the bushing slide right into the bar,and the bar slide onto the bolt at the lower end,and slide into the bracket at the top end,easier.Also there should be a washer on top,inside the bracket.

Edwardjohnsr

Clutch guy:

I just read your response where you mentioed the likelihood that the sleeve is rusted onto the bolt. I think you have probably identified my prolem. I will continue spritzing the penetrating oil on it and some day perhaps it will move. I just hope it frees up before spring.

Thanks much

Ed

Unknown

Stupid question.. Why are you trying to remove the rear stabilizer bar????

Edwardjohnsr

I'm just trying to change the bushings. The ones there now are probably the original ones.

Ed