need main seal

[Deleted User]

ok, ive been searchig around the forum for a place to buy a rear main seal and i found out how to replace it but not exactly where to get one. please help the name dale cooper come up but i cannot find out any more than that.

davidh

[Deleted User]

Here is Dales site all the info you need is here. Click on parts on the left and you can find the seal and order info.

http://www.hudsonmotorcarco.com/

[Deleted User]

thanks so very much !

Geoff

David, Yu have a pic of a '47 Hudson with your posting. If this is what you want the main seal for, they don't have one, unless you have changed the motor for a later one.

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

geoff, thats now good news. what then ? or should i say where ?

[Deleted User]

tried to say that NOT good news.

Huddy42

The front and rear main bearings on a 1946-7 Hudson used asbestos rope between the mating parts, there is about a 1/4" hole either side of the main bearing cap.i.e half on the block and half on the bearing cap, same goes for the front main bearing, what ever you do, do not use silastic, as any excess can come away and could find itself in the dippers of your con-rods causing bearing failure.

The idea is to get the rope and drive it upwards into the hole with a drift, a small amount at a time making sure it is packed tightly.



Another thing to be careful of is, if you cut your own sump gasket, make sure you cut the drain back hole in the lower gasket, there are three holes in the upper pan at the very back of the sump, two bolt holes and one for the drain back. If you don't have this hole you will have a very bad oil leak, as the oil can not return to the sump. It is best to use the upper section of the pan for your template as this will have this return hole, the lower half of the sump does not have it.

If you look at your sump, you will see the return tube at the very back of the lower pan.



If you look at Dale Coopers 1946-7 listing it is numered 72000 Rear Main Cap Rope Packing , cost $5.00. This rope suits all the splasher engines.



Les. P. Down Under.

Geoff

Les has answered your question for you basically. The oil that goes through the rear main bearing is channeled back into the sump via a slinger and deflector plates which surround the back of the crank, and as in all H.E.T. engines the rope is packed into the hole up the sides of the main bearing cap to stop oil seeping out between the adjoining surfaces. It doesn't have to be asbestos rope, as this is extremely hard to get now. The soft string they use in mops is quite suitable. Oil leaks can develop if the deflector plate area gets clogged up, or if the external pipe develops a leak (sometimes the solder cracks). I have also seen an extreme build-up of sludge in the sump which partially blocked off the area around the drain pipe, which cause a back -up of oil around the slinger. Good luck,

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

Geoff,



Have you ever had any luck in completely stopping the rear main seal from leaking a few drops? Do you use anything such as sealant when you install the rope? I have been thinking of trying a little sealant on the rope after I have started it in a ways.

Unknown

Scott wrote:

Geoff,



Have you ever had any luck in completely stopping the rear main seal from leaking a few drops? Do you use anything such as sealant when you install the rope? I have been thinking of trying a little sealant on the rope after I have started it in a ways.

Not sure if its the same but I used a high heat silicone sealant in the front virtical packing holes. I dropped the oil pan and pulled all the old rope cleaned the holes out and made a small metal end for the silicone tube and filled from the inside out. It stopped 99% of a BAD leak. I got this information from Geoff Clark. This is a 1929 Hudson I am talikng about. Good luck, Ron

Geoff

Scott wrote:

Geoff,



Have you ever had any luck in completely stopping the rear main seal from leaking a few drops? Do you use anything such as sealant when you install the rope? I have been thinking of trying a little sealant on the rope after I have started it in a ways.

Last week I had a '28 Hudson that was literally spewing oil out the back main. Figuring I had better do something, I reckoned I should do EVERYTHING! So I took the sump down, cleaned it out, paying particular attention to the drain pipe area, blowing it through with air. Re-soldered around the pipe (slightly cracked. Removed the main bearing cap and checked that the holes were clear. Checked the clearance of the bearing, and removed a .002" shim. Sprayed the back of the crankcase with degreaser, and with a thin blade coated over the bung at the back of the camshaft with high-temp sealant, just in case any oil was coming out there. Made up a plug from a 9/16" bolt, and tapped a thread in the hole in the front of the main bearing cap, and fitted the bung in here, to stop any back-pressure from the crankcase interfering with free flow of the oil drain. Re-fitted the main cap, and re-packed the sides with new string coated with high temp sealant. fitted new gasket and sump, using light coating of sealant. Wiped a smear of sealant on the shim are between the cap and block that is exposed. Fitted a breather tube in the rear tappet cover to prevent pressure build-up in the crankcase. Result - completely dry back of engine after 50 miles running. Okay, I never discovered exactly what caused the leak, but I sure fixed it! The only difference between this model and the later splashers is that the later ones have deflector plates and gaskets around the slinger flange, and there is no hole through to the crankcase. You need to pay particular attention to the area where the deflector plates butt together, and perhaps put some sealant around this area, on the outside. then you should have no oil coming out at all.

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

after the discussion of the leaky main seal i was confused. i thought theses seals sealed the rotating surface and that was where my leak problem was. here's the case: when i tipped the engine and trannmission at about 45 degrees to install it back into the car, oil came dribbling off the engine side of the flywheel. hence i thought we needed a new seal. now, after examining the bottom of the engine and the great proceedure manual for this car i do understand what going on. the oil was just running past the slinger and out to the flywheel. am i correct ? the leak i thought i had was really not of any major concern ? i hope im correct here. i really don't want to take this thing apart again. . .

thanks for all your super input.

davidh (well i have a new rope seal to add to my collection of spare parts)

Geoff

Aha, the old 45 degree trick! You are right, you won't have any problems, just stick to hills less than 1 in 1 gradient!

Geoff.