What type exhuast manifold for sbc 350

hudsonjeff

Does anyone have a suggestion on what type of exhuast manifold will work on a 1950 hudson with a 350 chevy. The manifold currently on the motor exits directly in the center of the steering linkage on the left side. Any info would be great thanks.

Unknown

Check with Wes Kitchens ... he is in Tenn and has a really nice 48 with a Chevy installed. Wes has posted here so you should be able to find his email when you find his posts...





Good Luck

Unknown

I got some "shorty", blockhugger headers. I made a small cut on the underside of the header, installed them on the motor, heated the tubes "red hot", put a pipe in the headers from the bottom, and bent them. You will need to get them about 1/2in from the frame. This will allow your exhaust pipe to clear the steerarm, the tie-rods, and your oil filter. Join the headers with a "Y", and you can then run a 2and 1/2 in pipe in the original route, with no problems. I went one step further, and welded "rings" around each header tube, milled them down to help create a better seal, them ported them to match the cylinder head. My winter project is doing a complete engine compartment detail, and sent my tunnel-ram, headers, and the exhaust "Y" to Jet-Hot, to get a Hi-Temp ceramic sterling silver coating. Unfortunately, FEDEX LOST my custom-made headers, and now, I'm in the process of making another set. E-mail me at wkitchen@midsouth.rr.com I can tell you where I got the headers, part number, and I have plenty of pictures. Attached is a picture of the headers, showing the work I did on them.

Unknown

Hudsonjeff, check your Private Message.

hudsonjeff

wes can you email pictures I am interested in the headers thank momto007@yahoo.com thanks also what type of shifter did you use?

Unknown

Sorry to take so long to post a picture of the finished headers. FedEx "FINALLY" found my original set. Like I said in an earlier post, start with some "shorty" block-hugger headers. Make some small cuts on the bottom side of the headers,then heat and bend them. If your motor is set so that the center of the exhaust port of #1, is in-line with the front shock post, this will be a perfect fit to clear everything. I'm in the process of having the carbs blueprinted, and while they're apart, they're being powder-coated to match the motor.

Unknown

Here's a different angle.

Unknown

Dang! Helps if you "attach" picture!

rambos_ride

wkitchens - nice looking engine!



I'm actually shoe-horning a GM 454 into my 49 Commodore. Pretty much the same issues as with a small block - the exhaust manifold on the passenger side has ample clearance however the drivers side drops into the steering arm - plus the oil filter has to be relocated to a remote placement.



When I did my research on block hugger headers I found that Sanderson Headers make some of the closest tolerance block hugger headers in tube or cast styles that I found out of any of the manufactures of headers - AND they show dimensions and how to take the measurements.



http://www.sandersonheaders.com



I ordered a set of QP2000 (QP1000 equivalent for small block) cast headers w/ceramic coating. The cast ones fit even tighter than the tube style headers. They are spendy compared to some I found - but they should fit my application with no mods to the header or steering.



I should get them in a week or so and then I'll know for sure...

Unknown

Keep me informed as to how they work out. Maybe it will be a different angle on a big-block, but on a small-block, the steerarm, and the tierods would be in the way with stock block-huggers. That's why I had to bend them outwards. Do you have the original "Hudson" front clip?

rambos_ride

Yes, I have the original front clip on the Hudson. My goal is to try and retain the original steering and "implant" the engine and trans.



According to the dimensions and drawings of the Sanderson QP2000 cast headers I ordered it puts their design only 3" from the head/exhaust mating surface then extends down near the block with the collector ending just near the top of the oil pan.



But, unfortunately I won't know for sure until I actually put them in. I'll be sure to post back on the results and put some pics on my website http://www.49c8.com

rambos_ride

It took a while longer than I thought to get the Sanderson Headers in. I have to say for the most part they were worth the money (600 + change for the ceramic coated version) -

FYI: If I were going to put these on a 'show' car I would have not had Sanderson do the ceramic coating because their prep job on the cast headers left A LOT to be desired.

That being said - with a big block 454 nestled in the frame with the headers compared to the original stock exhaust manifolds I have increased the distance between the rear edge of the upper a-arm by over 1/2" on each side - giving me plenty of overall clearance above next to the block and head.



Below that, however is a different story...



I still had the same issue on the drivers side where the drag link and pitman arm were getting in the direct path of the header collector.



Since I can't modify the cast header (I can see exactly how you needed to bend your tube headers out) this required some fabrication changes to the pitman arm and drag link.



Since I am going to run an automatic in the car so I first unbolted the original clutch pedal assembly from the base attachment on the front subframe.



Then I removed the drag link and pulled the pitman arm off of the steering box output shaft (get a pitman arm puller for this - trust me!) Then took the pitman arm and the L-shaped end with the ball stud - heated and bent it 180 degrees in towards the frame and bolted it back onto the steering box.



Changing positions of the ball stud required I had to modify the drag link. I chose to cut the original tube ends off with about 2" remaining of the center tube on each end.



Then I took 1/2 solid hot rolled round bar and cut and bent the rod to fit in the new configuration - welded the ends back on in the new mounting position making a complete 'new' drag link. Note: I have a compact tubing bender so I didn't need to heat the round bar to make the bends.



Now I have plenty of exhaust clearance through the full range of travel of the steering components. The only other modification needed was to remove 1 tab from the transmission case that the inspection cover bolted to. I will drill and retap a new hole and make a slight modification to the cover to accomodate the change.



Definitely a bit more involved than what was needed for the small block application but my fabrication work looks and mostly uses the original parts.



I'll be posting some pictures of the new parts on my website this weekend under Custom How To... -> 454 Exhaust 49C8.Com



Now onto the motor mounts...

rambos_ride

Hi All - For anyone still interested I finally got the pics of the rouged out 454 header installation with steering modifications



http://www.49C8.com



Navigate to



Custom How To... -> 454 Exhaust



or



Picture Galleries -> Restoration -> Steering



I'm curisouse to those out there with Small block motors How - much room do you have between the head/block and the upper control arms?

Unknown

Here's a picture of my "DUMMY" block, installed in my '48. There's plenty of space between the head, and the upper "A" arm. Did you mean the upper control arms, or the tie-rods, under the oilpan?

rambos_ride

RE:wkitchens



Yeah thats it - on a 454 block with my headers on I have about 1-1/4" gap on each side by the rear portion of the upper a-arm









I noticed in the picture you posted that you made a full "cradle" mount for the front of the engine. Did you make any mounts for the rear of the engine/transmission - or just a new crossmember for the rear of the tranny? Is it completely solid mount or did you use some type of rubber cushion?



I was toying with the idea of re-using the original straight 8 engine mounts. I inadvertantly swapped sides and held the original drivers motor mount on the passenger side and vicea versa for the other side and they actually would mount nicely to the frame with the only fabrication being pieces that would bolt to the block and sit on top of the rubber pad as in the original implementation.