Oil filter ?
Comments
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My recommendation would be to take the thing off and change your oil more frequesntly. These "partial flow" filters don't help much, in my view.0
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Harry
There are two filter cartridges used on Hudson engines and they can be obtained at most major parts suppliers. Example: Wix P/N's - 51004 & 51010.
Note: 51004 is larger and 51010 is most common.0 -
Thanks Guys,
Hope I see you Guys at Front Royal ... I'll be there....0 -
While Park is far more experienced than I am about Hudsons, in My opinion any filtering at all is better than none at all. Filters are not that expensive, and are available, so why not use them?
Bob0 -
NAPA 1010 is what you want. Easy to find.0
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Bob, I'm not fanatical about it, but it just seems to me that an external, partial flow filter (1) offers a false sense of security, and (2) provides a couple of unnecessary points of failure in the lube system. Anyone recall the infamous engine failure and parking garage repair job on the (now our) '51 convertible at the '97 National at Salt Lake? Principal cause: oil loss from a broken oil line to or from the filter.0
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Park W wrote:Bob, I'm not fanatical about it, but it just seems to me that an external, partial flow filter (1) offers a false sense of security, and (2) provides a couple of unnecessary points of failure in the lube system. Anyone recall the infamous engine failure and parking garage repair job on the (now our) '51 convertible at the '97 National at Salt Lake? Principal cause: oil loss from a broken oil line to or from the filter.
I say replace the rubber lines (from filter to block) with metal and be done with it.0 -
I agree with Park. When a line breaks, by the time light comes on, it is usually too late. I have several of the canisters for the filter that I will give anyone who wants to pick up or pay postage.0
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Step down Hudson's use the Fram C 3, and the v8 models use the C 4.0
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My 53 308 has a C4P. i would suggest you take the used one with you or you may get the wrong one.
Jay0 -
My Jet had metal lines, and one of them cracked whilst my wife was driving home. Luckily the oil light came on just as she parked the car, and no damage done. I could follow the trail on the road for 2 miles! And the engine compartment was well and truly rust-proofed. I replaced the metal pipes with high-pressure hydraulic couplings, and have had no further problems.
Geoff.0 -
Everthing is prone to failure. You can only do your best. At least the filter is not mounted above the exhaust manifold.0
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dave s wrote:I agree with Park. When a line breaks, by the time light comes on, it is usually too late. I have several of the canisters for the filter that I will give anyone who wants to pick up or pay postage.
Good reason to install an oil pressure gauge.0 -
Park W wrote:Bob, I'm not fanatical about it, but it just seems to me that an external, partial flow filter (1) offers a false sense of security, and (2) provides a couple of unnecessary points of failure in the lube system. Anyone recall the infamous engine failure and parking garage repair job on the (now our) '51 convertible at the '97 National at Salt Lake? Principal cause: oil loss from a broken oil line to or from the filter.
Yes,I remember this very well Park!! The 400 piece,$29.95 ?Hudson engine tool set!!! This proved to show the true colors of the HET Club!!! People all came together,we put a list of things we needed and like a scavager hunt,everybody went in all directions.members started making all the things come together and before the next day,we all had rebuilt an engine in the parking garage of the Red Carpet Hotel!!!.I think the big deal was getting the crankshaft welded and reground,and delivered back by 7:00pm!!! I think I said that I could not get that done in my home town,let alone in a city that was having a "special holiday"and I didn't know how it would all fly.A special thanks goes out to Chris and Kelly Purdum.It was their crankshaft expert that made the crank happen,but they had to call in some special favors!!! This was a great time,but all caused by a broken oil filter line on a by-pass oil filter!!0 -
Clutch guy wrote:Yes,I remember this very well Park!! The 400 piece,$29.95 ?Hudson engine tool set!!! This proved to show the true colors of the HET Club!!! People all came together,we put a list of things we needed and like a scavager hunt,everybody went in all directions.members started making all the things come together and before the next day,we all had rebuilt an engine in the parking garage of the Red Carpet Hotel!!!.I think the big deal was getting the crankshaft welded and reground,and delivered back by 7:00pm!!! I think I said that I could not get that done in my home town,let alone in a city that was having a "special holiday"and I didn't know how it would all fly.A special thanks goes out to Chris and Kelly Purdum.It was their crankshaft expert that made the crank happen,but they had to call in some special favors!!! This was a great time,but all caused by a broken oil filter line on a by-pass oil filter!!
Great story! And the lesson is: Better keep an eye on the metal fuel and brake lines too.0 -
By the way, fitting an oil gauge is no guarantee either. How many times do you actually look at it whilst driving? Not often enough, I'll wager, to pick up a drop in time to prevent damage. And remember, a broken filter line is not going to cause a drop in oil pressure reading anyway, until the oil has all gone. A good bright "Idiot light" is much better, providing you switch off as soon as it comes on.
Geoff.0 -
I really don't understand why people seem to think that steel brake lines wouldn't last in the oil filter application. If they are so prone to failure, we have bigger fish to fry.0
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I believe the problem with steel brake lines to connect the oil filter, is that they don't really like the hot/cold cycling and the vibration that they'd see.
FWIW, I do have a remote filter, being a believer that a little filtering is better than none, but I did use hi-end Parker hydraulic hoses that were crimped by the local dealer. Not that these can't fail either, but it's less likely than a rubber hose with a worm drive clamp, or the above mentioned 'hard' lines.0 -
Clutch Guy and the rest of the team did a super job on that crankshaft and rod bearing repair. The car was driven back from Salt Lake to NJ, I bought it a few months later and have put 20,000 troublefree miles on it since. Heading to The East Regional/Doc's Meet with it next month.0
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hudsonguy wrote:I believe the problem with steel brake lines to connect the oil filter, is that they don't really like the hot/cold cycling and the vibration that they'd see.
FWIW, I do have a remote filter, being a believer that a little filtering is better than none, but I did use hi-end Parker hydraulic hoses that were crimped by the local dealer. Not that these can't fail either, but it's less likely than a rubber hose with a worm drive clamp, or the above mentioned 'hard' lines.
Talk about temperature variations, God help those of us with steel gas lines from the fuel pump to the carb(s) and those with 54 models with power brakes. But then again, I haven't heard about a rash of Hudsons bursting into flames as the result of fuel leaking from split steel lines, nor have I heard of 54 Hudsons careening out of control due to split brake lines at the fire wall mounted Treadle Vac unit. For that matter, those with power steering might be at risk too. :rolleyes:0 -
I should explain - my Jet was fitted with copper pipes to the filter, not steel. Steel lines would most likely be fine, but copper tends to work harden, and can crack around the joins, or where bent. I replaced with ultra-high pressure hydraulic lines, as used in hoists, so should not have any further problems.
Geoff.0 -
As you say, copper lines on a car are not a good idea. But all the misinformation flying around regarding the use of rigid steel lines being a problem (from a stationary oil filter housing to the block) gives me a headache.0
This discussion has been closed.
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