Trim removal

Unknown

We are working on a 1952 Hollywood hardtop, and having a difficult time removing the trim without damaging it. Right now we want to get the trim removed that goes around the roof. Are there special tools or procedures for this. Some of the other trim seems to be on so tight, we wonder how it can even be installed without damage. Thanks for your help.

Jon B

Just hang in there, Rodder, someone will jump in here with an answer soon. This is a very common problem on the Step-Down Hudsons and I think there are a number of ways to surmount it.

[Deleted User]

rodder wrote:

We are working on a 1952 Hollywood hardtop, and having a difficult time removing the trim without damaging it. Right now we want to get the trim removed that goes around the roof. Are there special tools or procedures for this. Some of the other trim seems to be on so tight, we wonder how it can even be installed without damage. Thanks for your help.

Check the second page of my website... procedure is there for side chrome. THe top stainless on a Hollywood will be difficult to remove without damage. I would suggest that if the trim is presentable... to mask off the area around it and buff it on the car. Then mask it and do your body work as close as possible to the trim... you should with care beable to get all paint down to metal without removing the trim. Your car ... your call... I have had two Hollywoods and started to take the trim off one... stopped after damaging the first piece.



Good Luck

Unknown

I haven't done the roof on a stepdown but the side trim I've had good success with lots of WD-40. Get the end started slightly and work at it gently with a flat blade of some kind and go slowly, as the rust dissolves with the WD-40 it comes off quite easily. I found that if you work one edge instead of 2 the other edge lets go quite quickly, if you try to get both edges at the same time you are stretching the piece and its tougher to work with. The top pieces will have to come off very easily or the curve will change and then they are ruined

MikeWA

Eastwood, I think, has a set of non-metal tools for trim removal- prying tools with various angles and blades, that won't scratch things up or bend the trim as badly. I've also heard others say to lube them up, with WD40 or other light oil, not only to remove, but also to reinstall.

Hudsy Wudsy

On the other hand, I know a painter who loathes the use of WD40 and other silicone products on painted surfaces because he says it takes so much effort flushing all of the microscopic silicone balls off of the surface before painting. He says you never know for sure that they're all gone until you shoot it with something. This guy always has something to say about everything, though. Do any of you have any thoughts on this subject?

[Deleted User]

silicone is scurge on a paint shop. when every paint job in the shop lifts and then you find out the broom boy armor-all'd the seats in his car.

ppg dx-330 wax and grease remover works great, don't be stingy with it

Unknown

Thanks for your help guys. We'll probably give it a try this week-end.

essexcoupe3131

Silcon, can sit anywhere for years and sometimes just a just of wind is enough to send it through the shop again, never open up a paint shop close to a printer as the use lots on there gillotines when cutting the paper, I had to repaint an entire polish shop to bind it into the walls and rafters to stop the wind moving it, you when you have it as everything comes out looking like orange peel

[Deleted User]

I just removed all of the trim from my 54 Hornet. It took a lot of patience and the right combination of 4 letter words. I started at the end of the trim on the top edge using a very small screw driver to lift the trim up ever so slightly. Once the trim snapped loose from the retainer I inserted a putty knife between the trim edge and the retainer and gently tapped the putty knife with a hammer driving the putty knife the length of the trim piece. I didn't ruin one piece. Once I got the hang of it it went well. Work with it slowly and



Getting the retainers off was fairly easy. Virtually all of the screws were so badly corroded that I could not get a bite with a phillips head screw driver. . Using a Dremel Tool I deeply notched each screw so that I could get a good bite with a conventional screw driver. All of the screws popped loose using this technique.



Doug in Eugene, Oregon

[Deleted User]

I just removed all of the trim from my 54 Hornet. It took a lot of patience and the right combination of 4 letter words. I started at the end of the trim on the top edge using a very small screw driver to lift the trim up ever so slightly. Once the trim snapped loose from the retainer I inserted a putty knife between the trim edge and the retainer and gently tapped the putty knife with a hammer driving the putty knife the length of the trim piece. I didn't ruin one piece. Once I got the hang of it it went well. Work with it slowly and

be patient.



Getting the retainers off was fairly easy. Virtually all of the screws were so badly corroded that I could not get a bite with a phillips head screw driver. . Using a Dremel Tool I deeply notched each screw so that I could get a good bite with a conventional screw driver. All of the screws popped loose using this technique.



Doug in Eugene, Oregon

RonS

There is a tool that I could have sworn I bought from someone in the HET.It looks like a 1 1/2" Rigid putty knife with the blade bent on a 90 degree angle so that it can pry the trim off easily.

[Deleted User]

Here are some other methods posted on my website:



http://members.aol.com/sanjuana/Incoming/HudsonTrimRemoval.pdf



CHAT PAGE (Sep. 3 1998 8:48 PM)



Use a plastic putty knife between the stainless and the retainer. Spray between the retainer and stainless with WD-40 to loosen the rust on the retainer and to lubricate passage of the plastic putty knife. The plastic putty knife

'sacrifices' itself to prevent damage to the stainless and retainer. You will need to tap the putty knife along the trim with a rubber mallet. Take your time don't rush it. You should be able to get it off with no damage. Kenneth Ufheil From the HET

[Deleted User]

I Have Taken All The Trim Off Of My 53, I Used A Red Devil 2 Sided Scraper To Pry Them Up. I Also Used The Wooden Wedge That Is Used When Installing Doors In Your House. Used Them For Under The Scraper So Not To Mark The Car Panels. As Stated Before I Also Used A Putty Knife Once The Molding Is Started.

Unknown

I'm in the process right now of taking the trim back off of my 50. Let's just say that it is a slow process, and if you want useable trim at the end, best take your time, work slow, have patience.



Also to note, once you get the feel for it, the trim does come off a little ibt easier.

Unknown

Listen To Doug. A Dull Putty Knife, Hammer And Lots Of Wd 40 Drive It Flat Along The Body, Piecs Will Fall Off Straight As An Arrow, Dont Pry, Under Any Circumstances, Have Done A Hundred This Way, Bill Albright