Bad Vibrations!

Unknown

I took my 52 Wasp Cv, 262 twin-H, Dual-Range Hydromatic, out for the first time yesterday. I am getting bad vibrations up until about 55-60 mph. The vibration is not in the steering wheel but in the accelerator pedal. I have had a vibration for years but only at about 45 mph and 60 mph and could quickly drive out of it. It's not the engine missing as far as I can tell, doesn't hesitate any. It will accelerate smoothly, engine-wise, but the vibtration throught the pedal gets worse upon acceleration. My foot tingled after driving for awhile. The only thing I did this winter was to drop the trans pan and put on a new gasket and of course drained the fluid including the torus (sp?). I also put an new rear seal on trans. U-joints were changed winter before which did help some of previous vibration. When I put in new trans fluid followed the directions and put in initial prescribed amount of fluid, then drove it back and forth in driveway for awhile to fill torus and then added rest of fluid to full. Ended up at 11-1/2 quarts of Dexron III. Could I have overfilled it a 1/2 quart and its causing the vibration? What should I check?

I want to bring the car home this weekend. The car is parked over a pit so I have access to the underside of the car. Any suggestions welcomed.

[Deleted User]

Larry, Don't know if you have considered this or not, but you may want to check your driveshaft. If it gets out of balence it can cause BAD vibration. Also you may want to check the rubber isolation bumpers on the driveshaft,tranny mounts, and rear suspension points as a start. Front suspension should also be checked as well.King pins,upper and lower A frames and looseness in the steering may cause your troubles as well. Good luck Larry

dave s

make sure you didn't put center bracket with rubber cushions on backwards. (just look to make sure drive shaft is going straight back)

Unknown

since you have had some sort of vibration from the start, I suspect the brass busing in the end of crankshaft is missing, after all the other check recommended here and vibration persists, drop the trans and look at end of crank for missing brass bushing, this will cause your problem BILL ALBRIGHT

[Deleted User]

Just have the rear wheels balanced. Walt.

[Deleted User]

Check wheel balance, driveshaft bushing, and crank bushing, in order of ease of access and cost.

Unknown

If you want to completely get rid of that vibration, drop hudsondad a message. I know that Michigan is not too far for him to go for a convertible.



Seriously though, it sounds like a wheel, tire or driveshaft bushing, specifically those two little cushions that everyone else spoke about. I thought it was common for hudsons to pull these apart, so much they made some severe useage ones that were idicated by different color.



This sounds dumb, but for the way I drive, I carry a spare set in mine, just waiting to pull them off.



I don't know if it is an option, but perhaps you have an extra driveshaft layong around you could swap in to eliminate it as the culprit, but figuring not everyone out there keeps an unusual stock of spare parts as such.



I guess what is really strange is that you said this has been like that for some time, but different in nature, and it keeps pointing to me that the driveshaft or driveshaft related parts are where I would be checking, especially since you said the engine will otherwise go thru the speed ranges normally.



Keep us posted, vibrations are the worst to troubleshoot, and the most annoying to have to even try to live with.



Best of luck!

Unknown

Watch this, we'll probably find out that Walt's suggestion (easiest and most cost effective) is right on the money.

[Deleted User]

Yup start there its a cheap solution and even if it does not fix it, its good to have done.

RonS

Great thoughts from the previous guys,but check the center drive shaft "bumpers" the ones on a hydro are different than the standards and could also be on wrong . Look at a photo in a shop manuel if possible.

Unknown

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The center carrier bearing cushions are new in winter of 05-06 when I changed the u-joints. Drove it all last year.

Previous vibration was itermittant usaually around 45 mph. Didn't occur all the time and you could always drive out of it my increasing or decreasing 3-4 mph. New u-joints did seem to lessen it. Also previously only had one bolt holding center carrier bushings, nut had come off other. A good question on whether the center carrier is on right. Looked at manual but I don't know if that is a view from the front or the back. I believe I assumed that was from the front and put it back on that way. Didn't have problems afterward and made sure drive shafts stayed aligned in same position. New tires and wheel balance in spring of 05. I'll try to check everything this weekend, but i won't be able to drop the trans.

From the lack of response I assume that no none thinks it may be the trans if I over filled it by a 1/2 quart.



Any other comments or suggestions are welcomed. Again thank you for the previous responses. Will try to keep you informed. That's why I like this forum and log-on daily.

[Deleted User]

I know this may sound silly but have you checked the balance on the wheels? I had a dodge pick up that would vibrate between 40 and 50 MPH. It was fine above and below those speeds. I was going to rebalance the wheels but when I removed the hubcaps i found some dried mud from an off road excursion. Removed the mud and no more vibration.
Bob

[Deleted User]

Hi Hudson Dave Here . I would sugest you jack up one rear wheel block the front ones good then start It up and put It In gear take It up to 20_25 mph ck for vibration . Repeat on other side ck to see If It is beeter or worse . I would then take It on a roadtest . Take It up to 60 mph put the car In neutral and let It cost down to 45mph If no vibrtion is felt It Is most likely In the drive train . One thing that will cause the type of vibration you speek of and most commonly overlooked Is worn holes in the wheels . They bal. ok But when you tighten the lugs nut or bolt they bottoms out on the hub leaving the wheel still loose . Bal. as a rule comes In at 50-55 . Lower speed Is most likley a bad wheel or a bent axle or both . Get someone to stand behind the car when you spin the tires and look for a wobble . I hope this helps . Hudson Dave [url]www.FatWhiteWalls.com:[/url])