Update II: Suicide Door Hinges 4 Stepdowns
rambos_ride
Senior Contributor
Well - I just finished up my first week of contract programming work, and didn't feel lilke doing any work today other than sitting around and thought I'd update where I am at with the hinges.
Basically - a hidden hinge design is not going to work and open the door the way I want - level and full 180 degrees - as the width of the lower portion of the quarter is just making it impossible to come up with a hinge design that works with hidden pockets - the top one clears beautifully though :mad:
This is a unique problem with the stepdown construction, I wouldn't see any problems with earlier model Hudsons or trucks to install this type of hinge.
I tried the hidden pocket design as that is the only design you can find any information on anywhere when I was doing my initial research on these type of hinges.
I do have some ideas floating around with the bats in my head that I am researching that would involve using 1" or larger SS rod(s) with linear bearings driven by a mini linear actuator to slide the door straight out and then when it hits the end of travel either manually or with the action of the actuator it would then pivot and open the door completely clear of the quarter panel limitations.
But I'd say chances are about 90-95% right now that I may just have to put it back to stock :mad: Which sux but is not as onerous as one would think since I saved the pieces I cut out and can easily weld them back in place to get it back to the stock configuration.
Now that I'm working again it will only be another couple of weeks until I have money built up to start the real fun - buying parts to put it back together
Anyway - I'm not conceding defeat just yet, but sometimes you have to make a tough decision to cut your losses and move on with the build.
Basically - a hidden hinge design is not going to work and open the door the way I want - level and full 180 degrees - as the width of the lower portion of the quarter is just making it impossible to come up with a hinge design that works with hidden pockets - the top one clears beautifully though :mad:
This is a unique problem with the stepdown construction, I wouldn't see any problems with earlier model Hudsons or trucks to install this type of hinge.
I tried the hidden pocket design as that is the only design you can find any information on anywhere when I was doing my initial research on these type of hinges.
I do have some ideas floating around with the bats in my head that I am researching that would involve using 1" or larger SS rod(s) with linear bearings driven by a mini linear actuator to slide the door straight out and then when it hits the end of travel either manually or with the action of the actuator it would then pivot and open the door completely clear of the quarter panel limitations.
But I'd say chances are about 90-95% right now that I may just have to put it back to stock :mad: Which sux but is not as onerous as one would think since I saved the pieces I cut out and can easily weld them back in place to get it back to the stock configuration.
Now that I'm working again it will only be another couple of weeks until I have money built up to start the real fun - buying parts to put it back together
Anyway - I'm not conceding defeat just yet, but sometimes you have to make a tough decision to cut your losses and move on with the build.
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Comments
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Dan,
Don't give up on your door project. There must be an answer. I know it sounds crazy and off the wall but lets start thinking creatively out of the box. What about turning your head sideways and start looking at maybe hood and trunk hinges. If they can work on a veritcal plane and are strong enough it just might work. If they are not strong enough on the vertical plane, they may give you the geometry for building a stronger hinge in that specific pattern. And besides it doesn't cost just to look at this idea. A lot of them open up AND out away from the cowl or tulip panel.
Peace,
Chaz0 -
If I remember your pictures correctly.....how about moving the top hinge down to the top of the lower section and the bottom hinge as far down as mechanically possible? Then beef up the materials as needed. Or use one "monster" hinge in the middle.
Repro doors in aluminum would help with any weight issues.0 -
Thanks for the additional ideas - I'm going to keep trying to figure it out while I'm waiting to save $$ up for an gas welder ~ as well as re-fill my argon/C02 mig welder bottle as it getting dangerously low, totalled that'll probably be another 800-1000.00 in tools and supplies :eek: but if I'm going to buy a gas welder, I'm getting a good set that will last me the remaining years I have left.
A gas welding outfit is not something you want to cheap out on as I've heard stories of the low buck sets leaking gas around the seals or poor quality construction of the tips and the next thing you know - your hands are getting cooked!0 -
WAIT, WAIT, WAIT. I didn't know you wanted to open the doors 180 degrees. I was thinking more like a bit past 90 degrees. Do you remember we talked about two hinge points? So the door opens so far then another pivot takes over? Check this out and make something simillar. Look at "aerokits.net" and scroll down to "180 degree hinges". These are too much money in my opinion. But, you could make something simillar. If you look at there photos the hinges are close together and below the belt line!....just what you need! Take a look0
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I was looking around on MSN Stupid videos today and saw a car door that went down under the floor boards! Can anyone set up a link so others can see this? Maybe a new idea for rambo's door....Maybe not.0
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bent metal wrote:I was looking around on MSN Stupid videos today and saw a car door that went down under the floor boards! Can anyone set up a link so others can see this? Maybe a new idea for rambo's door....Maybe not.
Probably not!
I just got my MIG bottle filled and picked up a decent Oxy/Acetelyne gas welder to do some metal shrinking in some spots to finish the basic metal fabrication - about 2 years later than I thought!
So I'm getting ready to attack the hinge problem again by going with a single large hinge in the center of the beltline similar to the link you sent but the inner door frame will need to be re-inforced to keep it from wobbling but the hinge swing should work well from that mid point = I hope!0 -
ever get the hinges to work with the single one?
mike0 -
unique1963 wrote:ever get the hinges to work with the single one?
mike
No :mad:
It seems a lot of things have conspired or aligned to keep me from working out in the shop, heat, visitors, work, house work, yard work etc.. nothing different than anyone else - it just seems to get really hectic in August.
But, I've been thinking about it and just haven't gotten the time or ambition to do it since I got my welding supplies re-filled and upgraded with a oxy.act. setup.
That and I've been working a bunch which is good - cause I'm quickly getting to the point I'll need $$ to start piecing it back together.
Of course - it's now getting close to the 3 year anniversary of the purchase of the car...hmmmm...only 2+ years behind what I thought...(and counting :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: )
But, very honestly...I'm taking the day off from work to mow the lawn and my evening is already planned watching UFC and working on the Hudson, also its September and I actually enjoy working out in the shop when its cooler and/or raining outside than in the depths of summer - I mean it almost hit 90... 1 or 2 days this year...yikes there really is sumthing to GW0 -
i think winter hit when we have 90 out ... laffing..... in kansas we seem to get the extreems .. either hot hot hot or cold and 50 mile winds .. so we really think its a treat when once in awhile we get some 70 - 90 days here . ..
i'd be doing more on mine if i could ger wilcap on the ball with my trans adapter . almost 3 months now since i ordered it .. calling every other day trying to hurry em up ... no such luck it seems tho .
mike0 -
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Hi Sarah,
I've seen that video before, intriguing engineering - with a big "Gee Whiz" factor0 -
Cool factor is great, but on the practical side it may be real a pain getting in and out of it in a driving rain storm! Would need good drain holes in bottom of car.
Chaz0 -
Rode with a friend in his boss's new Eldorado about 25 years ago- twinkling indicator lites everywhere, seatbelt interlock, chime reminders, automatic door locks, etc. He opined, "If the electrics malfunction, they have to get the the Jaws of Life to get you out."0
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rambos_ride wrote:Thanks for the additional ideas - I'm going to keep trying to figure it out while I'm waiting to save $$ up for an gas welder ~ as well as re-fill my argon/C02 mig welder bottle as it getting dangerously low, totalled that'll probably be another 800-1000.00 in tools and supplies :eek: but if I'm going to buy a gas welder, I'm getting a good set that will last me the remaining years I have left.
A gas welding outfit is not something you want to cheap out on as I've heard stories of the low buck sets leaking gas around the seals or poor quality construction of the tips and the next thing you know - your hands are getting cooked!
hmmm both myself and another tradesman at work have the scars to prove that oxy/acet plants like to become a dual flame design....0
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