'53 Hornet won't turn over

Unknown

Hi all...



Okay, so I'm the first to admit that I'm not as mechanically savvy as most of the folks around here. So I'm asking advice from the experts, natch



I've got a '53 Hornet sedan with 308 engine and Twin-H setup.

Here's the problem... This car's always been a bit of a hard starter. I find that I usually have to prime the carbs if it's been sitting more than a couple of weeks or so. Which it has in this case. I last had it running in January or so, I think.



So now when I try to start up, I can hear the starter motor cranking hard, but the engine just will not fire. Well, actually that's not totally true. Very, very occasionally, I will hear it start, but then immediately die. Anybody have an idea of what might be the cause of this?



The battery is fully charged and I assume is producing the right amount of juice. I'm pretty sure the plugs are okay, but should probably test that.

Distributor, maybe? A co-worker suggested that I replace the points, which seems like a good idea.

Could be the timing is off?

Maybe the fuel line is plugged? This would maybe explain why the engine dies immediately after the rare occasions where it actually fires. I am thinking this is not the case though, since the gas in there is less than a year old, which is not enough time for it to jelly (I know... should have added stabilizer)



Anyway, hopefully I can get this cleared up soon, and then get on to more serious problems, which I'll probably explain in due course



Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

Unknown

Hi, I had an odd problem with my 52 Hornet. I traced it to a bolt on the bottom of the fuel pump, when the blot finally fell out, and landed in the lower A-frame. Of course, when it fell out, it quit running altogether. Check that bolt!. Steve

SamJ

Reminds me of an OLD joke...Why is your wife like a Hudson? Because on a really cold morning, when you really need them to, neither one will turn over...:D

Geoff

You need to check the basics - spark and fuel. Check the voltage to the coil whilst the engine is cranking is not dropping below 5 volts. Try starting with some ether down the carb throat, if it runs on this (even on one carb should do) thenyou have a fuel problem.

Geoff.

[Deleted User]

There are several things that you should be looking for. First of all, since you say that it intermintently starts but instantly dies leads me to believe that the fuel is being restricted in some manor. Check the fuel filter first. Also your fuel pump should be a dual stage pump meaning that it both pumps the fuel and provides vacuum for the windshield wipers. There is a baffle inside that can crack with age. Pull off a vaccum line from the wipers. If there is wetness or smells of gas this is the culprit. There is a flexible fuel line leading to the pump. It could have a kink in it. More that likely though your problem lies within the tank and/or line leading to the pump. When I took the tank off my '53 Super Wasp there was over 30 lbs of corroded metal lying in the bottom of the tank. When I pull the sending unit and the flow line both were severely corroded. The flow line in the tank was also severely plugged and full of pitted holes. Doesn't allow the gas to even get into the fuel line. Good Hunting. Hope this is helpful...Glenn Degere..'53 SuperWasp

Unknown

Also todays gasoline will go bad in about 30 days, discovered this quite by accident, thank God, if your fuel is over 30 days old it lost most of its volatility, in other words it wont fire in your engine. If you've got a partial tankful in the car, try adding 5gals or so of fresh fuel & see if it will fire up. Good luck.

Unknown

Spark Spark Spark,!!! These Are The First 3 Things You Need To Check. Steve Is Also Right Todays Fuel Goes Bad Fast. -john

[Deleted User]

SamJ wrote:

Reminds me of an OLD joke...Why is your wife like a Hudson? Because on a really cold morning, when you really need them to, neither one will turn over...:D

Maybe Sam, but which one still has a trade in value if it dosen't turn over??????

Unknown

Thanks for all the good advice!

I knew I could count on the Hudson sages.

With luck, I'll get the beast started up again soon.

[Deleted User]

DAK wrote:

Hi all...



Okay, so I'm the first to admit that I'm not as mechanically savvy as most of the folks around here. So I'm asking advice from the experts, natch



I've got a '53 Hornet sedan with 308 engine and Twin-H setup.

Here's the problem... This car's always been a bit of a hard starter. I find that I usually have to prime the carbs if it's been sitting more than a couple of weeks or so. Which it has in this case. I last had it running in January or so, I think.



So now when I try to start up, I can hear the starter motor cranking hard, but the engine just will not fire. Well, actually that's not totally true. Very, very occasionally, I will hear it start, but then immediately die. Anybody have an idea of what might be the cause of this?



The battery is fully charged and I assume is producing the right amount of juice. I'm pretty sure the plugs are okay, but should probably test that.

Distributor, maybe? A co-worker suggested that I replace the points, which seems like a good idea.

Could be the timing is off?

Maybe the fuel line is plugged? This would maybe explain why the engine dies immediately after the rare occasions where it actually fires. I am thinking this is not the case though, since the gas in there is less than a year old, which is not enough time for it to jelly (I know... should have added stabilizer)



Anyway, hopefully I can get this cleared up soon, and then get on to more serious problems, which I'll probably explain in due course



Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

Hi---After a car has been sitting for 2 weeks or longer, I would prime the carburetor(s) In order to save all that starter grinding to bring up the gas to the carb. And I find that the dual carbs flood easily so I would not use more than a teaspoonful in each one. Another solution would be to install an electric pump in the line & merely turn it on for a few seconds before attempting to start. All 3 of my Hudsons have this arrangement & it works great for me.---Cliff Minard.

Unknown

hudson8 wrote:

Hi---After a car has been sitting for 2 weeks or longer, I would prime the carburetor(s) In order to save all that starter grinding to bring up the gas to the carb. And I find that the dual carbs flood easily so I would not use more than a teaspoonful in each one.

Yeah, that's exactly what I always do if the car's been sitting for a while.

Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be helping in this case. All I hear is the starter motor working hard, but the engine doesn't fire.

At this point, I'm thinking spark plugs are the most likely culprit, or maybe distributor points.



dave

Unknown

Although, having said the above...

A friend has suggested that I might be able to get a tune-up kit of some sort with plugs, points, condensor, etc.

Does anyone sell such a thing?

Or are the points and condensor readily available from parts dealers? (i.e. same as Ford or Chevy of that vintage)



Sorry for the ignorance here. I've had the Hudson for a while, but I haven't had to do any work on it up to this point.

Unknown

A good old fashioned parts store, one that is willing to make the effort, should be able to get what you need. The plugs which are readily available and closest to the originals are Champion H10C or H12.

mars55

DAK wrote:

Although, having said the above...

A friend has suggested that I might be able to get a kit of some sort with plugs, points, condensor, etc.

Does anyone sell such a thing?

Or are the points and condensor readily available from parts dealers? (i.e. same as Ford or Chevy of that vintage)

'51-'54 Hornet tune-up parts.



Dist. Cap: Standard Motor Parts AL-138 NAPA AL106



Ign. Coil: Standard Motor Parts UC-14X NAPA IC7



Points: Standard Motor Parts AL-4652XP NAPA CS719A



Condenser: Standard Motor Parts AL-111X NAPA AL869



Rotor: Standard Motor Parts AL-152 NAPA AL112



Spark plug: Originally, a Champion H11 was used. This plug is no longer made. The following is what is currently used.



AC 47L, Autolite 216, Champion H10 (844 is the new number) and NGK B4L.

Unknown

Excellent!

Thanks so much for the info, guys. That's exactly what I needed.



My sister's boyfriend (who's more mechanically inclined) is gonna give me a hand, and, with luck, we'll be back on the road soon. I'll let you know how turns out.

Unknown

Will the part numbers be the same for the 232 & 262? Do you happen to have the part # for the optional oil filter cartridge too?

Try Wix 51010.

[Deleted User]

Also NAPA number is 1010.

Unknown

SamJ wrote:

Reminds me of an OLD joke...Why is your wife like a Hudson? Because on a really cold morning, when you really need them to, neither one will turn over...:D

Never heard that one..........Maybe needs turned over by hand and then jump started!

Unknown

hudsondad wrote:

Never heard that one..........Maybe needs turned over by hand and then jump started!

Which one, the wife or the car?

mars55

Will the part numbers be the same for the 232 & 262? Do you happen to have the part # for the optional oil filter cartridge too?

Yes, the parts are for all sixs '51 -'54. Here are some more oil filter part numbers.



Fram C3 & C3P, AC P203 and Purolator L20701.