Heat Riser
Comments
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If you can move the shaft, it's free. If it's stuck, spray all moving parts with lube and keep working it until it springs back into place when the car is cold. I've never met a heat riser that didn't respond to some lube an a little exercise.0
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OK, now I'm worried. There is nothing hooked to my heat riser, nothing that looks like the spring, the bracket holding the spring, or the shaft on the other end. Am I going to have problems running the motor without all of this?0
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What Shaft am I trying to move??0
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LanceB
Considering where you live, I wouldn't worry about it. Those who drive in colder climates would benefit from the quicker warm-up these provided.
TOM-WA-
The one that the spring is attached to. Typically, the shafts were made of brass. To find out if its stuck, you can lift up on the front edge of the spring or move the weight on the opposing side. If nothing moves, it's stuck. If you get (and hear) movement, it's free.0 -
Tom,
Based on your picture above. The pivot shaft has the slot cut thru the middle of it, and the clock spring inserted thru the slot. If you reach around the left side of the manifold you'll feel the large counterweight that is attached to the other end of this shaft. This is where you should try to move it. If it's frozen, just lube judiciouslythe two spots where the shaft goes thru the manifold, and tap this counterweight lightly until it starts to move, then keep lubing and tapping until it works freely.0 -
Bear in mind that those of us with headers don't even have a heat riser, and we seem to survive. I don't have chokes on the ol' Twin H carbs either- so its a little cold blooded on startup, but if you warm it a minute, it works fine. Most of us aren't driving our Hudsons in cold weather anyhow.0
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When lubing the shaft, DO NOT use oil it will carbonize and make the problem worse. Use a graphite lubricant made for locks in a liquid form. Shpuld be available at most hardware stores.0
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