37 Terraplane shifting

Unknown

I start out in 1st ok, minor chatter if releasing clutch slowly. Can't get 2nd or 3rd unless I release clutch and let it just start to engage then depress clutch again to get it in gear. Looking for some suggestions. It also vibrate when in 3rd at higher speeds even when I depress the clutch and let it roll.

Jon B

I'm not sure exactly what the question is. The clutch is chattering? If so, is the proper amount of Hudsonite installed?



Or, are you saying you can't get second or third to engage without double clutching? Second is always tricky to get to engage without clashing the gears; you sort of have to pause a second before slipping it into second. Third, however, should not be a problem.



You speak of vibration. Are you sure it's from the clutch? If you're driving at, say, 40 mph and you release the clutch, and there is some vibration, it might be coming from the drive shaft or any of the wheels. Tires might also be bad -- have you had them balanced?

Unknown

6 oz's Hudsonite. New wheels ( Cokers ). When I try to catch 2nd with the clutch in it won't go. If I release the clutch and let it start to go into 2nd, then depress the clutch again it will shift. Third is also a problem once I am in 2nd. Once in 3rd it won't come out until I shut the vehicle off, then I can shift it into nuetrel without using clutch. Just thought maybe someone had experienced this before and would know what to do. I will try to adjust the clutch again. I drove 50 miles Saturday with no vibration. Shifting was a problem, but vibration was not. I will check drive shaft and all mounts and see if I can narrow down the problem.

Jon B

Okay, I'm not an authorized factory-trained Hudson mechanic but I'll put in my two cents worth. You say "then I can shift it into nuetrel without using clutch". Right off, there is something wrong with the transmission because there are interlocks on both sides which absolutely prevent shifting unless the clutch is in. These are the two bars that slide up and down vertically at either side of the transmission. It leads me to think that these may have something to do with your problem. Assuming (hoping!) you have a shop manual, I urge you to turn to Section 10, and specificially look at the illustration #1002 which pictures the interlock better than I could explain it. As you can see, if the lock rod link does not move to the precise spot when the clutch is depressed, the lock plunger will not allow the shift rail to move.



So, get someone to depress the clutch while you get under the car with a flashlight and eyeball the vertical movement of the lock rod link. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed the notch on the link should be aligned with the lock plunger. There is a very simple adjustment that can be made with the nuts on the link rods to get this alignment correct. Then, check the same thing on the other side of the tranny.

Unknown

It is possible that someone may have disconnected the interlocks on both sides of the transmission, thus allowing shifting without depressing the clutch. As I understand, one purpose of those interlocks is to hold the transmission in gear so it does not pop out. If the interlocks have been disabled, there could be internal damage to the transmission which could contribute to the shifting problems.

Unknown

Jon B wrote:

Okay, I'm not an authorized factory-trained Hudson mechanic but I'll put in my two cents worth. You say "then I can shift it into nuetrel without using clutch". Right off, there is something wrong with the transmission because there are interlocks on both sides which absolutely prevent shifting unless the clutch is in. These are the two bars that slide up and down vertically at either side of the transmission. It leads me to think that these may have something to do with your problem. Assuming (hoping!) you have a shop manual, I urge you to turn to Section 10, and specificially look at the illustration #1002 which pictures the interlock better than I could explain it. As you can see, if the lock rod link does not move to the precise spot when the clutch is depressed, the lock plunger will not allow the shift rail to move.



So, get someone to depress the clutch while you get under the car with a flashlight and eyeball the vertical movement of the lock rod link. When the clutch pedal is fully depressed the notch on the link should be aligned with the lock plunger. There is a very simple adjustment that can be made with the nuts on the link rods to get this alignment correct. Then, check the same thing on the other side of the tranny.

I figured it was linkage or clutch related. You can consider yourself a factory authorized/trained technician. I don't think anyone from the factory will debate the issue. I have the mechanical procedures manual. Looked at the illustration. Should be able to make some adjustments. I think I have narrowed the vibration to u-joints. Appreciate your knowledge and quick reply. I went out and played golf last night. 38 degrees and windy. Just needed to show myself there was something more trying than my Terraplane. I met a fellow in his 70's. He called my car a Hudson Terrible pain. I laughed as much as I did when I read the recipe for Hudsonite compound that was posted earlier this year. Thanks again!

Jon B

You're entirely correct to walk away from your Terraplane to get some fresh air once in awhile. Keep reminding yourself: it's only a hobby. Not an obsession. (Well, a few of us might differ from that opinion but we need professional help...)

Unknown

Jon B wrote:

You're entirely correct to walk away from your Terraplane to get some fresh air once in awhile. Keep reminding yourself: it's only a hobby. Not an obsession. (Well, a few of us might differ from that opinion but we need professional help...)

But if I keep at it, I will be able to drive my Terraplane to the Golf course!

Unknown

Made the adjustments. Both were off nearly the length of the notch. Shifts into 2nd and 3rd. Have a very low ringing when in 3rd at 50 MPH and above. When traveling at slower speed there is no ringing. Have any idea what that might be?

SuperDave

Make sure your starter drive isn't touching the ring gear. If It is, try a thin washer/spacer in the starter to remove end play in the forward direction.

good Luck, Dave

Unknown

SuperDave wrote:

Make sure your starter drive isn't touching the ring gear. If It is, try a thin washer/spacer in the starter to remove end play in the forward direction.

good Luck, Dave

That would be where the ringing is coming from?