Bracket for smallblock/700R-4

Unknown

The question was asked." What kind of bracket was used to support the transmission, when installing a smallblock in a stepdown"? I made a bracket that bolts thru the transmission, and into the engine block. This supports not only the front of the tranny, but the rear of the motor. I cut the top off of a shock, and welded the "ring" into the bracket, then I used a urethane bushing to absorb the vibration. Sorry I couldn't find a picture of this setup when my motor and tranny were installed, so I took this picture to give you a general idea.

Unknown

This is the rear of the tranny. It shows the crossmember, and the bracket I made to mount everything to. It also shows the first, of 3 transmission coolers I have in the system.

I hope this gives you some ideas as to what direction you want to go.

SuperDave

Hey Wes,

Whats the brake master cylinder? Looks like two bales..is it a dual cylinder? That looks kool , please explain.

Dave W (who just had to rebuild a master cylinder after a wild ride on the mechanical over ride!)

rambos_ride

Wes - I'm going to be using a TH400 in mine - but I gotta ask "Why 3 trans coolers for the 700R4?"

Unknown

Why 3 coolers? I guess in one word, it would be "Overkill". The first cooler(pictured) has the hottest fluid. I put it at the rear of the transmission, because I'm trying to keep as much heat out of the engine compartment as I can. Then the fluid goes to the cooler in the radiator. Finally, I have an auxillary cooler, rated at 10,000 lbs towing capacity, that is mounted at a 45 degree angle, just under the front bumper.All this is to protect the $$$$ I have in the tranny, and stall speed. Do a search under "Raptor Transmission", and you'll see all the "GOODIES" this tranny has. Between these coolers, the lines, and the deep transmission pan, I've doubled the amount of fluid in the system. You wouldn't "NEED" all this for this tranny, but then again, I wouldn't "NEED" the B&M auxuillary oil cooler, with a 10in fan, and a 165 degree thermostat I have either. It's just another bit of "insurance". I want to be able to go cruzin', in 100 degree heat, in stop and go traffic, while running the A/C, without puking antifreeze all over the place. Been there, done that!

Unknown

When converting to 4 wheel disc, you will need a mastercylinder with a 1and 1/8in bore, to move the extra amount of fluid for the calipers. You will also need to install 2lb. residual valves, as close to the mastercylinder as you can. Pictured, is the mastercylinder I used, from Master Power Brakes Inc. The part # is MC390545M. The residual valves(blue for 2 lb.) are #VL3702K. The proportioning valve is #BL3350K. I made a bracket, and welded it to the frame, and was able to use the original "HUDSON" pedal, and plunger.

Unknown

OK! While I'm boring you with pictures, here's the cooler I mounted under the front bumper.

rambos_ride

Overkill is not a bad thing - Especially when you spend so much time putting the darn things together!



I guess I was more curious if there where problems with the 700R4 running cool enough and/or air flow problems to keep it cool enough.



What did you do for a radiator?

rambos_ride

Just an observation...



Are you putting something over this cooler to keep rocks et. al. from puncturing the core?



Some Expanded Metal Screen would work well and let air through...

Unknown

I would have left out the cooler in the radiator. However, I agree that one can't be too careful. When we were drag racing a 460 Ford powered Wasp, we use an A/C condensor from a Toyota for the extra trans cooling. It worked really well, held up great and added considerable additional fluid capacity. Great workmanship there!!

Unknown

I had Walker Radiator, in Memphis,make me a new one, using the old one as a model. I then sold the old one on Ebay. I wanted a new one, that had a tranny cooler. Cost was @$600.

Unknown

Howdy

I have just acquired a 1950 Hudson Pacemaker that has a 460 Ford motor and a C6 trans. The motor has been stroked to 514cid and has extensive headwork. The previous owner had some jacklegs put the motor in. They also salvaged a Chrysler New Yorker '80's vintage, rear end & front end and put them under the Hudson.

The rear end looks like it was done right, and I plan to leave it alone for now. The motor is definately coming out and will be for sale. It was mounted too far back, slightly off center to the driverside, and at too much angle. I have no idea what they were planning. I want to put a smallblock Chevy & turbo 350 trans in it. Is there anywhere that I can get mounts?? I still have the original Hudson radiator, and pass right by Walker Radiator every day. Met the senior Walker back in 1963 at a car show.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Billy

Unknown

Hi Billy! As far as I know, nobody has come up with a "kit" to mount a Chevy in a Hudson. I've seen some really good ways, and some that were really bad. My way is "overkill", because I'm putting some serious horsepower in. I saw a Stepdown at the Pigeon Forge Meet, that used the same idea that I did (a plate bolted to the front of the block using the 4 bolt-holes by the harmonic balancer), but they used the original Hudson mounts. For everyday street use, this would be a good way. Glad to hear that there are other Hudson people close to me. I live in West Memphis. If you'd like, give me a call sometime (weekends are best), and I can tell/show you some of the little "quirks" you're fixing to encounter. XXX870-732-1136XXX Or email XXXwkitchen@midsouth.rr.comXXX Leave out the X's

Unknown

Howdy

Sent you an email. Gladc to find somebody close

Billy

[Deleted User]

wkitchens wrote:

The question was asked." What kind of bracket was used to support the transmission, when installing a smallblock in a stepdown"? I made a bracket that bolts thru the transmission, and into the engine block. This supports not only the front of the tranny, but the rear of the motor. I cut the top off of a shock, and welded the "ring" into the bracket, then I used a urethane bushing to absorb the vibration. Sorry I couldn't find a picture of this setup when my motor and tranny were installed, so I took this picture to give you a general idea.

wkitchens, I know this thread is old but wanted to ask how you dealt with the tranny hump? Did you have to raise the height on it? Or were you able to use the original? I am putting a 4L60e in my 50 Pacemaker and really want to keep the bench seat. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. :-) Do you have pics of the completed install?



Jay

Unknown

Jay, I did have to cut out the floorboard for the larger transmission, but you will still be able to keep your bench seat. That is........if your 4L60e has the same dimensions as mine. It just so happened that my 700R4 is just the right length, so that the U-joint of the yoke, fits right between 2 supports of my Stepdown's uni-body construction. When I was driving the car around last year, I formed a temporary "hump, in case I had to make any changes with any of my designs. Now, I've taken the car apart, down to a shell, and am in the process of rebuilding it. When I get to installing the floorboard, I'll build another "hump" from some sheetmetal.

Unknown

Jay, here's another picture. It shows the tight spot I was just mentioning. All these little "quirks" is what makes it so challenging to design your own drivetrain. What kind of changes have you already made, or is it original at the moment?

[Deleted User]

Its all original at this point. Have to get the VIN inspection before I tear anymore apart (no recon titles wanted!).



There is a Mustang II in the garage awaiting install. A 95 vette LT1 is on its way from Houston and we'll build the mounts when the MII is installed. I have mounts from Fatmans, but do you have a better mount set-up? I'm open for any suggestions. Don't have a rear end yet, would like a Currie Ford 9", but kind of pricey at this point (got a little one at home, so I'm on a budget). I hear late model Versailles are a good width, but haven't researched it yet. What are you running in the rear? I'm thinking of something around 3.07 gears to get decent fuel savings, as this will be my daily as well as long distance driver.



Is that rear tranny crossmember 1" box tubing?



I think the 4L60 is the same dimensions as the 700R4, someone can correct me if I'm wrong.



Thanks for your info and pics....lets compare notes.



Jay

Unknown

Jay, with the Mustang front, at least you won't have to worry about the tie-rods being in the way. When installing a Chevy in a Step-down, it has to be set in just right, to clear everything, without changing much. With the original front-end, you have to take notice to have enough clearance between the tie-rods and the oilpan.The exhaust has to clear the steerarm, the frame, the tie-rods, and the oil filter. And the distributor has to clear the firewall. I went ahead and got "Currie" to build me the Ford 9 in rear, posi-trak, 3.28, with disc brakes. Even though I have a tunnel-ram, and 2 Holley 450's, the 700R4 overdrive and the "lock-up" torque converter allowed me to average 18mpg when I took the trip from West Memphis to Pigeon Forge. 860 miles round trip. And you can ask the people that were at the meet, that car was always "on the move" while I was there. The transmission crossmember "is" 1 in tubing. If you'll look back through this thread, you'll see the only major change I did to my car, was drop the crossmember 2and 3/4 in. I did this because I installed a deep pan on the tranny, for extra coolant. I'm in the process of building a website, that shows lots of "before and after" pictures of my work(like Dan, "Rambo's Ride") Until I get it all together, if you'd like some pictures of any of my modifications, just email me at XXXXXXwkitchen@midsouth.rr.comXXX Leave out the X's. The list of modifications are:

Walker Radiator w/electric fan

3 tranny coolers

SprintCar style front motor mount

Chevy V-8 w/tunnelram

4 wheel disc

1and 1/8 bore mastercylinder

stainless steel brake lines

700R4 tranny

Tranny mounts

tranny crossmember

"Currie" Ford 9in rear

12 volt system

I made all the changes to the car, with the main focus on the "mechanics" of the car. Now that I'm sure all my changes work, I took the car "TOTALLY" apart, and am in the process of putting it back together. Only now, my focus is on the "cosmetics". I know I've posted it here before, but here's a picture of the motor. "Holley Red", with the tunnel-ram, and headers "Jet-Hot" coated, and the carbs have been blue-printed, and rebuilt, along with powder-coating to match the motor. I cleaned up the underside, sprayed "Corroless" underneath, and put 2 good coats of rubberized undercoating on. I'm now in the process of cleaning up the inside "shell", and I'll spray "Corroless" in there, and rubberized undercoating where I can. Then the outside shell will be stripped to the metal. This ought to keep me busy all Winter!

[Deleted User]

Wow, lot of info, thanks!



Jay