Changing Gasket in Rear Axle

[Deleted User]

Folks,



looking for a bit of advice. Got a small leak in the gasket of my rear axle on my 51 Hornet sedan. Jacked her up and took a look. Its a small leak from the front of the casing. I tightened the bolts but still a very small leak. Definitely coming from lower part of where the casing bolts together, I think the gasket has had it. Now this rear end has no cover the crown and pinion are in the front casing that bolts to the rear end. I am thinking that to replace the gasket I am going to need to drop the drive shaft and pull the front casing off. I am also thinking I need to pull the axle shafts to get that out.



Is this the case or am I off base. If it is I might as well clean up everything as I am under there. Any advice appreciated.

Jon B

I have a '37, but -- yes -- I believe you have to slide both axles out a bit to allow the differential to be removed. And of course disconnect the rear end of the drive shaft.



I would assume Dale Cooper has the proper gasket. And, you might try using a silicone sealant around it, to make it really oil-tight.



Just for fun, try cleaning off all the oil around the joint between axle casing and differential, then drive around the block. Now re-check to find exactly where the leak is located, and mark the position with chalk. When the differential's removed, check that part of the mating surface to see if it's more than a bad gasket that is causing the leak.



If you know of a good mechanic who's acquainted with Hudson differentials, this would be a good opportunity to have the innards of the differential checked out. Sometimes those parts wear. It's one part of the car that doesn't get much attention and they CAN go out, leaving you stranded -- as mine did in 1980, on a long trip!



Replace the pinion oil seal while you're at it!

hudsonguy

You will need to drop the driveshaft and pull the axles first. You'll also need a puller to remove your axles. Dale Cooper does indeed have the gasket you need. After re-installing with a new gasket, you'll have to torque it to spec. (I think around 25 ft-lbs., but check the book) several times to get it totally oil-tight. Jon is right, to replace that pinion seal at the same time.

[Deleted User]

I was planning on changing the seals as I did this. Pinion and axles. Anyone know of a good source for these. Yes I will check the diff for wear and make sure its shimmed correctly. I have worked on diff's before though I have never worked on one like this with the gears in the front casing. Thought a bit of advice was warranted.



Thanks for the answers.

Park_W

Dave Kostansek/Tim Cheney have the seals. As for pulling the axles after removing the drums and the axle retaining plates, try putting the drum and axle end nut back on loosely and using the drum as a "knocker" type puller to get the axle out. It usually works.