Hi everyone,

Unknown

I'm a newbie here and am getting my 1949 Super Six Sedan out of mothballs. I haven't kept up with the Hudson world lately and am wondering where the best sources are for parts, a shop manual etc.



After going thru the brakes, carb, fuel pumps (elect & mech) I've got her running fairly well but it sounds like I have a loose tappet and would like to adjust the valves. It appears that the manifolds need to come off for access, or is there another way?



Thanks,



John

Jon B

Welcome back to the Hudson world, John. You didn't mention whether or not you were a member of the H-E-T but of course the Club Store has a number of helpful things including shop manual reprints. And the WTN has lots of parts sources in its advertising. The main Club webpage is at http://www.hudsonclub.org/ in case you haven't been there. You might also try our Chatroom at http://www.classiccar.com/hudson_chats.htm . Generally, you'll find folks there in the evening (say, after 8:30 - 9 PM EST, evenings) and if they can offer helpful advice they certainly will.

Uncle Josh

Inlets are 2,4,5,8,9,11,

Exhausts are 1,3,6,7,10,12,



1 revolution valve adjustment sequence

1 & 4 up, adjust 9 & 12

8 & 10 up, adjust 3 & 5

2 & 6 up, adjust 7 & 11

9 & 12 up, adjust 1 & 4

3 & 5 up, adjust 8 & 10

7 & 11 up, adjust 2 & 6

Done!

__________________

Uncle Josh

Unknown

not necessary to pull manifold to adjust valves. just take off inner fender panel, rh side , pull wheel and tire get the valve covers off and go to it, bill albright, please join HET, IF NOT A MEMBER

Unknown

Thanks Jon, Josh & Bill



Josh, good info, thanks…..I assume the valve sequence you posted starts with #1 cyl set @ TDC, and requires one rotation to set all? I see that the recommended lash is .010 int, .012 exh hot. Is it possible to adjust them cold with the engine off, and if so, at what lash?



Bill, yes I looked at the HET website and will order the shop manual from there, but I don’t see a local chapter in the Northern Ca area (I’m near Sacramento)…closest seems to be LA area. I’ll contact the National for more details.



On top of the “list” are front motor mounts, rubber weatherseals, window crank knobs & escutcheons, antenna knob and a few other plastic parts that have not fared well over the years. Can anyone recommend a few vendors?



Thanks for the help, glad to “meet” you all.



Best,



John

Jon B

many of the plastic, rubber and weatherseal parts are remanufactured or sold by K-Gap, in California. The company has just changed hands; I believe the new e-mail address is HETkgaphet@aol.com (delete the first HET before sending). The previous owners charged $2 for the catalog, refundable on the first order; I'm not sure what the new owner's policy is, on that matter.



By the way, I believe the chapter that covers Sacramento county and its environs, is the Sacramento Valley Chapter; if you go to the Club's website and click CHAPTERS, then WESTERN, and "NEXT" your way through the pages, you'll find the president's address. As you may know, you do not have to join a chapter to join the National club; however you must be a member of the National to join a chapter.

hudsontech

There are a couple of tech bulletins on my tech bulletin web site that may be helpfull - http://groups.msn.com/HudsonTechnicalInformation/_whatsnew.msnw .

Check out TS 77-12 and TS 78-13.



Husdonly,

HudsonTech

Unknown

There used to be a quite active chapter in the No. California area. Nobody mentioned the National meet in Reno. Only 125 miles over the hill...

Unknown

Haha.. I remember adjusting tappets on my hudson for the first time, back when i was 16... (only a few years ago...) and having to do it hot, like the manual said, and burning my hands and knuckles.... good character building exercise for a young kid....



my shop manual says that clearance for the tappets 1948-1949 six is as follows...

intake .008

exhaust .010



at normal operating temp.



is this wrong????

Uncle Josh

Actually, that's one rev of the camshaft, which is 2 revs of the crankshaft. Never mind TDC, just crank it until the first two are up on the chart and go from there.



.008 and .010 is the recommended lash for the splashers, including the 254 inch eight. Lash for the 232, 262, 308 is .010 and .012.



I calculated the increased length that op temp would lengthen the valve stems with the best coefficient of expansion I could find and came out with about .00125, so an extra .001 to .0015 cold would get ya real close. Better a hair loose than a hair tight unless you're racin it.



BTW, I just took my inner fender off and after lunch will adjust the valves on my 262. Jack on the cross member and let the A-frame hang down. When all the bolts are out, pull the bottom out a little, drop the front down lift the rear up and pull it out the top.

Unknown

Thanks again everyone,



I’ve printed out the forms for HET Membership and a shop manual and will mail them off Tues. I think I’ll try the “Jack Clifford” approach on the valves (thanks Hudson Tech) and set them at .012 & .019 cold.



The car was in storage for the last 12 years, so I put a bottle of Techron concentrate in 5 gals of fresh gas and have been running it at fast idle and it seems to be getting smoother the more it runs….just one tappet has a steady “tick tick”……maybe some crud on that valve that won’t let it seat all the way. I can hope it will clear itself, but I’m not counting on it.



Best,



John

Unknown

Uncle Josh Weathersby wrote:

Actually, that's one rev of the camshaft, which is 2 revs of the crankshaft. Never mind TDC, just crank it until the first two are up on the chart and go from there.



.008 and .010 is the recommended lash for the splashers, including the 254 inch eight. Lash for the 232, 262, 308 is .010 and .012.



I calculated the increased length that op temp would lengthen the valve stems with the best coefficient of expansion I could find and came out with about .00125, so an extra .001 to .0015 cold would get ya real close. Better a hair loose than a hair tight unless you're racin it.



BTW, I just took my inner fender off and after lunch will adjust the valves on my 262. Jack on the cross member and let the A-frame hang down. When all the bolts are out, pull the bottom out a little, drop the front down lift the rear up and pull it out the top.

Thanks for the tips Josh. One link mentioned increasing the lash to .012 & .019 cold, which jives with my experience on adjusting Studebaker valves cold & static vs. hot & running



I assume you completely removed the hood hinge on the passenger side?



Best,



John

Unknown

Welcome, Packard8 ! Glad to see you found this Hudson Forum. Don't be afraid to ask questions, because you'll find, we're not afraid to give answers! I like to think of this Forum, just like the way the talk-show host, Glen Beck, describes his show, "It's the fusion of entertainment, and enlightenment"! Again, WELCOME!

Unknown

have everything you need, get the weatherseals from K Gap, Bill Albright