Help with '36 mods?

[Deleted User]

Can anyone over here lead me in the right direction to lower my 36 'plane slightly? I would like to do a reversable prcedure if possible. Lowering blocks?

Also want to split the manifold and run duels to get a little sound (without getting too obnoxious). Any ideas?

Thanks, guys.:)

Unknown

Two inch blocks always worked for me, and are reversible. They wont interfere with shock or spring movement. Hope this helps

Ol racer

FYI This may help lower the Front....

I lowered my '37 front end about 1 1/2"just by drilling the the front (Rear)shackle up near the top 'eye'. I wanted it lower so I installed 14" wheels then de-arched the front leafs....

Ol racer

Duals,

Suggest having done in Welding Shop where they split ,weld, then cool slowly in sand to prevent cracking. Seen a lot of 'Splits' back in the day...Think JC Whitney sells flanges........

[Deleted User]

Thanks guys. Hey Ol racer, how do you go about "de-arching the front leafs. Just heat?

Ol racer

FYI

Actually, since I was installing a (heavier) Hornet motor, I had new Main leafs made a lttle thicker with slightly less arch then clamped all the other leafs together. When car was completed I wanted even more 'rake' so I either had to remove the 2" rear 'Blocks' or lower the front...



Since Ihad already re-drilled the rear shackle hole, I put a floor jack under the 'front of the spring' about half way back fron shackle to axle wrapping a chain around the spring & underneath the jack then jacked up the spring bending it down to just clear the sway bar. I did one side at a time; It rides pretty nice, doesnt bottom out, or touch the sway bar.

(Most 'travel' is back at axle anyway)



The thicker new main leafs required a couple guys jumping on the front bumper to bend but original leafs probably would bend easy using just the jack so go slowly...



Previously, I have always arched aged leafs individually cold using an anvil and sledge (with ear muffs).

Ol racer

FYI

Just to clartify; I wouldnt recomend heating. The metal may cool too quickly weaken and/or crack the leaf

Unknown

Ol racer wrote:

FYI

Actually, since I was installing a (heavier) Hornet motor, I had new Main leafs made a lttle thicker with slightly less arch then clamped all the other leafs together. When car was completed I wanted even more 'rake' so I either had to remove the 2" rear 'Blocks' or lower the front...



Since Ihad already re-drilled the rear shackle hole, I put a floor jack under the 'front of the spring' about half way back fron shackle to axle wrapping a chain around the spring & underneath the jack then jacked up the spring bending it down to just clear the sway bar. I did one side at a time; It rides pretty nice, doesnt bottom out, or touch the sway bar.

(Most 'travel' is back at axle anyway)



The thicker new main leafs required a couple guys jumping on the front bumper to bend but original leafs probably would bend easy using just the jack so go slowly...



Previously, I have always arched aged leafs individually cold using an anvil and sledge (with ear muffs).

I had to laugh when I read your response. That will work fine, but I used to race dirt track. It was illegal to run jack bolts, or to modify the suspension, sooooo, we would tie a chain aroud the drivers rear. My brother and his friend would sit up there, while I was skinny at the time and could crawl under, I got the honors of bolting the chain. We never got caught. Didnt mean to hijack the thread, thought I would pass on a little humor.

Ol racer

Actually we used to do something very similar on our dirt track Terraplane, Used to chain the motor back to the frame and strap 2nd gear to the dash.. All crude by todays standards but it worked...

[Deleted User]

Lol... You guys crack me up. Was there not anything ya wouldn't do to "go faster"?

Ol racer

Hey,

Believe not or not our old Terraplane 212" Motor was very competitive dirt racing in a 'strickly stock' class against the Ford Merc, & Olds v8's with no blown motors. We gave it a 30 degree valve job and installed a White Mustang' Truck 2bbl Carb with some 'rough porting'. Later we put in a Hornet upped the gearing dramatically because of the tremendous torque difference and won everything until they forced into running the 'modified class' with our stock Hornet.

[Deleted User]

Well, I got the easy part done! Installed 2 inch blocks above the rear springs with longer "U" bolts. Now she's runnin' a couple inches uphill!

I actually had to raise the mudflaps to get them off the ground. Looks good though, still plenty of suspension travel.

Now, the hard part--gotta figure out the front.

Ol racer

Is that your beautiful red'36 cpe that your lowering? Earlier I mentioned a few things that I did to lower my Hornet powered St Rod cpe, but the only things easily reversed are drilling the front spring rear shackles and/or buy a couple mopar 14' rims & tires to drop the front 2"(16" tire to 14") Of course the wheels would be different.. Maybe could use slotted police wheels with beauty rings & small caps...

[Deleted User]

Your coupe is a honey! That car I was telling you about in MO is still there, so there is a near-twin to your car that exists!

[Deleted User]

Ole Racer, I tried to reply your private message, but I don't think it

"took" . Anyway, I definitly need to figure out how to lower the front, now. Even though it doesn't show much in todays photo, it has a real "taildragger" look which is kinda cute, but I want to level her out. I don't know what to do with the front, because the shackles are not what I expected and are actually sideways U-bolts going through the spring hole. Leaf springs of course, no coils. I am not sure how I'm gonna her her down yet....

Ol racer

Denver slim, Now I understand; My '37 had straight 'shackles' with top & bottom 1/2 bolts. I simply removed the 'shackles' then drilled another hole 'up' as far as possible which lowered the front end.



Do you have the 2 Torque Arms connecting to the '36 axle too?

Either way, You could make a pr of shackles from 1/4"scrap steel plate then drill top & bottom holes as close as poss and install two grade 8 bolts with grease/antiseeze...



First measure your sideways 'u-bolt shackle 'centers'. If near 3 3/4" - 4"centers you could drill your 'new' shackle holes at 2"center lowering front 1 3/4 -2" . I found lowering at that fixed shackle point directly drops car while at the forward 'pivoting' point lowers car much less....

[Deleted User]

Ol racer, Yep, mine has the torque arms that connect to the axel. I have scored a buddies garage with a lift and although it is soooo much easier to do this work, I don't get to see the car every night so it may take a few days to check it out. If I get lost here I'll try and post a picture or two.

Thanks for all the help, guys.

This is a barrel of fun.

[Deleted User]

Ol Racer, do you think I could get a couple of inches re-arching the front end of the front springs?:rolleyes:

Ol racer

Denverslim,

You definitely will drop it some; Rather then remove the springs I would use the chain around the floor jack method by sliding the jack straight (as possible) under each spring assembly half way back between shackle & axle then jack up the spring pulling down the car. May have to experiment on jack & chain placement. Spread chain apart to axle then forward to shackle) Use a narrow wood block between jack & spring so jack wont slip. Go a little at time and ck drop; Do NOT use heat. May have to jump on bumper some maybe a couple guys..



It works; I wouldnt recommend something that I didnt do...I bent mine down almost to the sway bar. Car might ride little rougher but with my radials I dont notice any difference...



I suppose I could bend the springs back up by putting a block in-between the spring & frame then jack up on or near the shackle, but I never will....