Supercharge--Turbocharged
I failed to tell all about the engine leaks on a WELL WORN Hudson eng when SUPER-OR-TURBOCHARGING A 232-308 ENGINE. If the crankcase is not vented to accept the Pressure that blows past Rings and Ex valve guides down into the crankcase the Rear seal (rope-style) will leak OIL. You may need to use dual valver cover breathers and a K.N Style filter on the oil fill tube. When pulling steep grades in Casper (46--262 engine) and running 3-6 LBS of boost the rear rope crankshaft seal will leave a Trail of engine oil that covers the transmission and Diff.
You may not have this problem with New Rings, Valve guides,and Rear Seals. ( we are still testing the WORN 262 to see how long the Bottom end and head Gasket hold up ) We have put a few thousand hard miles on it every week with short blasts up to 90 mph and boost at 5 lbs. on deserted roads ) Its our delivery truck.
Hudsonly Rudy
You may not have this problem with New Rings, Valve guides,and Rear Seals. ( we are still testing the WORN 262 to see how long the Bottom end and head Gasket hold up ) We have put a few thousand hard miles on it every week with short blasts up to 90 mph and boost at 5 lbs. on deserted roads ) Its our delivery truck.
Hudsonly Rudy
0
Comments
-
Something I hadn't thought about. I probably need to get busy on the crankcase breathing dynamics of the Hudson.
I wonder if the 262 isn't actually capable of holding higher cylinder pressures than a 308? The 262 certainly has more gasket between cylinders. It gets mighty narrow with the 308 in a few places.
I'd venture to guess the bottom end will hold up forever.
Mark0 -
Rudy, how about putting a variable, electric vaccuum motor on the draft tube so that it works in sync with the varying boost.
i.e., if the boost created is +7 psi, then the pump generates an equivalent negative amount within the crankcase (?), flowing through the K&N filter and through the draft tube; if it drops to 5psi, then the pump drops down to an equivalent amount (-5 psi ??). When there is zero boost, then it reverts back to the standard operating procedure (open to the atmospheric pressure).
This will take some engineering but anything is possible, for sure.
You will need to locate a pressure sensor in the crank case and determine what type of pressure range it experiences at 0 mph (atmospheric-assumed, 14.7 psi), at 25 (?), 50 (?), 75 (?), 100mph (?); then work out a system that will never allow the crankcase pressure to exceed what it was originally designed to experience. My 2-cents.
How about a photo of your truck.
Thanks,
John0 -
Mark,I think you are right,on the gasket and brackshaft. The will take more. We start Raising the Boost little by little starting next month to 9-11-13 Now we get nervous and hope that we dont get that PAIN that is felt in THE WALLET when you reach the limit and things start to FLY.
Some wanted to know about fuel usage well,here goes.
Son Rick wanted to test a 500 Holly 2-barrel so we went that way and we are getting between 18-19 mpg with 0-boost at 65-70 mph.
With boost im sure that mpg goes to pot.
Hope this helps all and Hudsonly Rudy and Rick0 -
super651 wrote:Mark,I think you are right,on the gasket and brackshaft. The will take more. We start Raising the Boost little by little starting next month to 9-11-13 Now we get nervous and hope that we dont get that PAIN that is felt in THE WALLET when you reach the limit and things start to FLY.
Some wanted to know about fuel usage well,here goes.
Son Rick wanted to test a 500 Holly 2-barrel so we went that way and we are getting between 18-19 mpg with 0-boost at 65-70 mph.
With boost im sure that mpg goes to pot.
Hope this helps all and Hudsonly Rudy and Rick
Negative crankcase pressure is a beautiful thing. There are some pumps out there just for that reason. I'm going to side with John on some kind of system needing to be hashed out. Whether its practical or not, I don't know.
I've seen Hudson's with two draft tubes. That would definitely help, at least give whatever blow-by you have an easier way to escape rather than blowing by your seals.
Another thought came to mind. Do you know what your oil pressure is when running it at full boost? Do you have any way of reading the oil pressure at the turbo vs. the rest of the engine.
I can't wait to see the pressure get turned up. I'm figuring the head gasket will be a casualty long before other pieces start to break.
All you 262 fans out there, stand up and cheer.
Mark0 -
it once crossed my mind to turbo my essex. it seemed easy enough. until i started really thinking about it. id have to rebuild the motor to start. then id have to find a way to keep a head gasket in it. then i realized its only a spasher and i threw in the towel o nthat idea. sure it would be pretty simple to mock it all up, but to make any power and keep it runnign would be nearly impossible. so ive moved on from that thought and figure an engine swap is in order.0
-
we have used twoof chevy camaro & pontiac firebird electric vacuum pumps on the Mustang drag car. it definatly helped out as we put 2200 passes on the last engine before leakdown got to 3%.
we run this one at 8inches of vacuum all the time but on a boosted engine I feel using a boost referenced bleed valve would work best.
it may not be needed but could be easily done.
PaceRacer500 -
John,that Variable Electric Vac-Motor sounds good, we will investigate.
But on a fresh engine rebuild with very little blow by leakage may not be a problem.
Thanks to all. Rudy and Son0 -
Intersting & important subject....
I have also used 'dual' draft Tubes on my 329"Hornet but now utilize a Chevy PCV valve in one valve cover with a Mopar Fill Cap hosed to a Holley 4bbl carb base plate that works good. For a larger motor I bought a Moroso Crankcase Evacuation System...
Regarding Rear Seals....
Might want to consider using the '58-'80 318" Mopar type 'neoprene' Seal by cutting off the 'ears' instead of the orig 'rope seal'...0 -
Ol Racer, is that for the 55-56 308 blocks? Or 48-54 blocks ?
Thanks Rudy0 -
Hi Rudy I installed this neoprine seal on my 308 block It Fit Like A Glove
If the older blocks are the same as my 54 block it will fit. When you slip the dodge seal into the top and bottom halves , where the seal fits
you will think you have died and gone to heaven as to how good it fits.
1957-89 318 dodge FelPro BS 40245
Bac/National 5414
Rudy did you get any seals for the distributor made yet
HAPPY NEW YEAR Keep the rusty side down and the
painted side up. duncan0 -
Duncan, thanks for the seal part #.
We hope to have some by middle of Jan. I will let you know.
Thanks so much Rudy0 -
Rudy,
I read about using the 318 Mopar neoprene rear Seal right in this Forum from Duncan, PaulLargeType, Mar55 then made a Reference Note of the update. Great Information sharing here ...0 -
Duncan, Please send me your Address (on a PM) and i will send you the D-Ring Seals. ( how many ) Hudsonly Rudy0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- 37K All Categories
- 106 Hudson 1916 - 1929
- 19 Upcoming Events
- 91 Essex Super 6
- 28.6K HUDSON
- 562 "How To" - Skills, mechanical and other wise
- 995 Street Rods
- 150 American Motors
- 175 The Flathead Forum
- 49 Manuals, etc,.
- 78 Hudson 8
- 44 FORUM - Instructions and Tips on using the forum
- 2.8K CLASSIFIEDS
- 602 Vehicles
- 2.1K Parts & Pieces
- 77 Literature & Memorabilia
- Hudson 1916 - 1929 Yahoo Groups Archived Photos